You Should Be Watching: Early 1940′s

After last month’s You Should be Watching on Series, the engaging TED Talk below was brought to our attention.  Over the past few months, I have also been keeping track of a number of valuable video resources available online which explore the transition from 1930′s glamor to 1940′s wartime austerity. Make Do and Mend was the  impetus for this month’s focus on early 1940′s fashion.

Make Do and Mend – TEDxUSU
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Image: National Library of Scotland (GII.2005.2.3)

In this 15 minute talk, recently given at Utah State University, Nancy Walker discusses how World War II influenced the fashion industry. Walker covers new wartime styles, the advancement of manufactured and synthetic textiles, and the promotion of mending and reusing clothes. In addition, Walker covers the establishment of government sanctioned fashion restrictions, imposed first in England and later in the United States.

Make Do and Mend is an information packed talk, concisely introducing 1940′s fashion issues, making this video a valuable classroom resource.

1940′s Era Fashion Movies and Newsreels
FashionHorizons

There are numerous short 1940′s era videos available on YouTube. Simply searching, “1940′s Fashion” will give you hundreds of hits, some more relevant and worthwhile than others. I’ve done the legwork for you and here a few of my favorites.

Fashion Horizons (1940)
Produced by TWA and Paramount Pictures, this 1940 film follows a group of Hollywood starlets on a holiday get away. The 20 minute video is filled with constant costume changes, featuring leisurewear, travel suits, and Santa Fe inspired fashions. Accessories and menswear are also shown. I am particularly fond of the Halliburton luggage plug. I guess product placement isn’t such a new concept.

Aristocrats of Fashion
This campy 10 minute movie is filled with early 1940′s sportswear and evening wear. Produced by the Bamberg Corporation, the movie is actually a long advertisement for the company’s vibrantly patterned and “easy to clean” rayon textiles.
(Spoiler Alert: Charlie and Carol get engaged.)

U.S. News Review
Much more poignant is this series of patriotic World War II newsreels. The 15 minute films provide updates on military endeavors abroad, focus on domestic issues like childcare, and feature industrial influenced wartime styles. In this particular video, Veronica Lake models a practical new hairstyle, appropriate for women working in factories.

Holiday Inn (1942)
HolidayInn

Take a break from all of your research and writing this holiday season with a Christmas classic. Holiday Inn is filled with fabulous Edith Head designed 1940′s gowns!

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You Should Be Watching: Series

Below is a group of video series featuring insightful talks, one-on-one discussions with fashion designers, and front row views of major runway shows. Easy to digest, yet stimulating and thought-provoking, these concise videos are perfect to watch while on the go or to utilize in a classroom setting.

TED Talks: Fashion & Beauty: Beneath the Skin Deep

TED
Image from Ted.com

Beneath the Skin Deep, available streaming on Netflix, brings together 11 TED Talks focused on either fashion or beauty.

The speakers and topics vary widely, ranging from Issac Mizrahi’s rantings on fashion to the science of growing alternative textiles and on to  design creativity spurred by the lack copyright protection in the fashion industry.

Obviously the fashion focused talks are more pertinent to the costume historian than the beauty centered talks. However at only fifteen minutes in length, the talks are not a major time investment and I found many of the beauty focused talks equally relevant and thought provoking.

The talks are also available free on TED.com and can be found by searching beauty and fashion, filtered for talks.

Recommendation: Johanna Blakely: Lessons from Fashion’s Free Culture

Fashion DVD

FashionDVD
Image from Amazon.com

As the title states, this is a series of just that, fashion DVDs. The twenty(+) DVDs are available on Netflix and are compilations of well known designer’s runway shows. The shows, dating from around 2004-2005, are grouped into thematic topics such as Paris: Daywear, Milan: Knitwear, or simply Menswear or Haute Couture.

Each DVD is approximately 70 minutes long, void of any commentary, and focused wholly on the runway show. Simple text at the bottom of the screen denotes the designer and music has been added to accentuate the video footage. (The videos are great to play in the background when reading or writing.)

The DVD’s remind me of television shows from the late 1990’s like Full Frontal Fashion or Fashion Trance. It is exciting and a great research and teaching tool to be able to see live fashion shows. However with the immediacy of today’s media, the videos have become quickly outdated. With resources such as Style.com and Youtube it is easy to conduct a simple internet search to source up-to-date runway videos.

Recommendation: Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2004-2005

Vogue Voices

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Image from Vogue.com

Available at Vogue.com, Vogue Voices is a series of 9 one-on-one interviews with well known fashion designers. Approximately ten minutes in length, the videos are highly informative and easy to watch.

Vogue’s Digital Creative Director Sally Singer conducted the interviews however Singer’s voice was left out of the final edits. The result is a rare and intimate opportunity to hear designers such as Stella McCartney, Alexander Wang, and The Rodarte sisters discuss their personal inspirations, design influences and the development of the fashion industry today.

Including images of particular garments, highlighted by designers during the interviews would have provided a better understanding of the topics being discussed.

Recommendation: Donatella Versace – Who doesn’t enjoy listening to Dontella Versace talk. Plus she is extremely personable and makes some interesting points about nurturing an established fashion house.

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You Should Be Watching: The Macabre

For October, I’ve selected a group of slightly sinister documentaries and videos, each focusing on some of fashion’s darker influences. The first two films recount the lives of fashion deviants who produced spectacular garments which at times were also quite disturbing. While the third group of videos focus on a highly influential style that was rooted in rebellion and destruction. As fashion visionary Rei Kawakubo perfectly stated, “For something to be beautiful it doesn’t have to be pretty.”

The Legend of Leigh Bowery (2002)
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Image from Leigh Bowery Looks: Photographs by Ferguson Greer 1988-1994

The provocative exploits of artist-musician-fashion designer-performer Leigh Bowery are retold in this 2002 documentary. Interviews with family members, discussions with museum curators, and a large amount of archival footage are expertly combined, illustrating Bowery’s humble beginnings in Australia and his meteoric rise to underground avant-garde fashion legend.

Falling outside of the traditional fashion milieu, Bowery’s costumes are dark, glamorous, and inspiring. Bowery did not design with commercial success in mind. Instead, Bowery’s extravagant fashion creations were a true artistic expression.

While many of the works portrayed in the film are very powerful, a deeper understanding of Bowery’s work would have been possible if placed in context with popular fashion, art, and music of the time. In addition, investigation into Bowery’s influence and legacy would have completed the film.

The Legend of Leigh Bowery is available on DVD through Netflix.

McQueen and I (2011)
McQueenBlackDuckFeathersFall2009
Image from Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty

Produced for Channel 4 UK, McQueen and I traces Alexander McQueen’s rapid rise from fashion school student to one of the most influential and eccentric voices in the fashion industry.

McQueen and I explores the tumultuous relationship McQueen had with patron and muse Isabella Blow. Recent interviews with family members, archival footage of Blow and McQueen, and early McQueen fashion shows are seamlessly woven together, telling the dark story of two fashion innovators and the untimely death of both by suicide.

McQueen and I provides a valuable and rare look at the story behind the now fabled fashion designer.  As well as providing an insightful look into the life and influence of Isabella Blow. Stunning video of McQueen fashion shows, including his work at Givenchy and Gucci, are used throughout the film.

McQueen and I is a poignant documentary and a particularly important view for the twentieth century fashion historian.

View the full McQueen and I video on YouTube.

Punk: Chaos to Couture Exhibition Video Resources
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Image: Metropolitan Museum of Art

Did you miss the Punk: Chaos to Couture spectacle this past summer at the Met? Wish you could have visited a second time for a closer investigation? If so, below is a useful collection of audio and video features available online.

 Punk Gallery Views
This is a fast paced visual tour of the exhibition narrated by curator Andrew Bolton. The concise video highlights ensembles and installation details that could have been easily overlooked. Excellent close-up images and gallery views are provided throughout the video and are almost better than when viewing the exhibition with hundreds of other visitors and under dark dramatic lighting.

In addition, the audio feature at the bottom of the page is an excellent supplement to the video. After viewing the video, some of the information is repetitive however Bolton’s narration is easier to follow in the audio component.

Punk Interview for Vogue Italia
A 2o minute behind-the-scenes interview with Bolton, spliced together with images from the catalog and garments as they are prepared for installation. Bolton introduces us to the key concepts in Punk while explaining the ideas behind a number of the exhibition design elements. Bolton is much more personable and conversational in this video, helping to convey his excitement about the subject matter.

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You Should Be Watching: The Editorial Eye

Zac+Posen_2010_AnnaGrace

This September we focus on a trio of documentaries which introduce us to the dynamic personalities that have controlled the look of glossy fashion magazines for several decades. These films also explore the powerful influence that the fashion editor has on the development of popular styles, fashion photography, fashion designers’ careers and the fashion industry itself. As you will see, a no-nonsense business attitude, a discerning eye, and a larger than life persona are the key to success in the editorial business.

Note: Each film title below is linked to a separate webpage with viewing options.

The September Issue
The film that made Anna Wintour a household name.

The September Issue revolves around the production of Vogue’s monumental 2007 Fall-Fashion issue. Frigid interviews and interactions with Wintour are contrast against the romantic under-dog pining of fashion editor Grace Coddington. It is Ms. Coddington who steals the show.

The film follows Wintour as she weighs in on designers’ new collections and meets with department store executives. While fashion editors are followed, struggling to capture the perfect layout for Wintour.

The guilty pleasure of watching The September Issue (think The Devil Wears Prada) is balanced by rare and insightful glimpses into the inner workings of the fashion industry.

In Vogue: The Editor’s Eye
September Issue: Part Two

This time, HBO’s heartwarming documentary veers away from focusing on editor-in-chief Anna Wintour, focusing instead on the innovative team of fashion editors that have shaped the look of Vogue (and possibly fashion in general) for the last fifty years.

Here editor’s like Grace Coddington, Tonne Goodman, and Polly Mellen shine, when discussing the ideas behind some their most memorable photo shoots. Often these images are immediately recognizable, reminders of important moments in recent fashion history.

Through these introductions we are given an insightful history of Vogue accompanied by an amazing array of archival images. Utilizing Vogue covers, the social factors that influenced the rise of the Supermodel and the return of the celebrity personality are discussed.

In Vogue is a short feel-good yet thought-provoking documentary for fashion historians.

Vreeland

Diana Vreeland: The Eye Has to Travel

Retracing Diana Vreeland’s beginnings from columnist to premier fashion editor at Harper’s Bazaar and Vogue, to ushering in the modern era of exhibitions at the Metropolitan Museum’s Costume Institute, the life of (or the legend of) the flamboyant fashion editor is celebrated in this glitzy 2012 documentary. Interviews with fashion photographers, models, and fashion designers are interspersed with filmed and recreated dialogue with Vreeland, revealing the highly influential and at times outlandish nature of Vreeland’s life.

For fashion historians, the true value of The Eye Has to Travel lies in the numerous archival fashion photographs and layouts which are used to illustrate the development of Vreeland’s career. In addition, an insightful early history of The Costume Institute is provided towards the end of the film, when Vreeland takes over as a Special Consultant in 1973. Vreeland’s historical accuracy and conservation methods while at the MET are questionable, however they do bring to our attention important topics to consider when exhibiting costume objects.

One to watch: Mademoiselle C
Just out, in limited release, late this month. Mademoiselle C follows Carine Roitfeld, former editor of French Vogue, as she attempts to start a new magazine CR Fashion Book. Check back next month for an update.

Image Credits:
Grace Coddington and Anna Wintour 2010 – Bryan Bedder/Getty Images North America
Diana Vreeland - Interview Magazine Cover- December 1980

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You Should Be Watching: Versailles ’73

Over the years, Worn Through has featured numerous fashion related videos and documentaries.

The slew of new documentaries out this summer season reminded us of what a powerful tool video can be when teaching fashion and conducting costume research.

In a similar manner to Worn Through’s You Should Be Reading, we have decided to launch You Should Be Watching. You Should Be Watching will introduce and evaluate new documentaries and videos while also revisiting some past classics that deserve a second investigation. At times, the column will focus on a single film (like the post below). At other times, the column will review a group of related videos or movies.

We hope the content of the new posts will add to your arsenal of fashion resources.

Versailles ’73: American Runway Revolution

Versailles ’73 covers a significant topic in American fashion history, which in the past has received little attention.

Burrows73
Image: Charles Tracy from Stephen Burrows: When Fashion Danced

Le Grand Divertissement à Versailles, better known as the Battle of Versailles, was organized to raise funds for the restoration of the Palace of Versailles. The event pitted five well-known French design houses (Yves Saint Laurent, Pierre Cardin, Emanuel Ungaro, Christian Dior, and Hubert de Givenchy) against five relatively new American fashion designers (Oscar de la Renta, Stephen Burrows, Halston, Bill Blass, and Anne Klein).

The outcome of the 1973 fashion show established American designers and American sportswear as a powerful force on the global stage, challenging the staid dominance of French haute-couture. The success of the American designers, largely credited to the electrifying presentations by their African American models, ushered in a new era of fashionable beauty.

VERSAILLES-MODELS-OF-1973
Image: KAPLAN/SIPA – Oscar de la Renta’s show at the Palace of Versailles

Writer-director Deborah Riley Draper’s upbeat retelling of the events leading up to the fashion show and the event itself, utilize excerpts of  interviews with models, designers, and socialites involved with the show in 1973.

At times, the firsthand accounts can veer towards gossip but they do succeed in providing lively and valuable insight. Commentary by individuals like the Costume Institute’s Harloda Koda and designer Stephen Burrows, add depth to the viewers’ understanding of the social importance of the fashionable event.

The engaging documentary is visually stimulating while elucidating the phenomenal influence that a small group of American sportswear designers and African American models had on the global fashion industry.

Further exploration into the ways in which the industry was altered after the Battle of Versailles would have rounded out the film.

Viewing options available on Itunes, Xbox, YouTube, and Amazon. Click here for more information.

Additional Resources:

SCAD Style 2013 Panel Discussion
Featuring Pat Cleveland, Deborah Riley Draper, Stephen Burrows, and Cameron Silver
Link to SCAD’s YouTube Video Post here.

Tavis Smiley’s interview with writer-director Deborah Riley Draper.
Link to Tavis Smiley video post here.

Stephen Burrows: When Fashion Danced catalog and exhibition.

In addition, we look forward to Robin Givhan’s 2014 book,  One Night at Versailles: The Fashion Showdown that Changed Everything.

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London Fashion Umbrella: Modern Cultural Curators on Film

Screen grab from Another Magazine film featuring Simon Costin

Screen grab from Another Magazine film featuring Simon Costin

While I was on my hiatus from Worn Through, much of my waking hours were spent working alongside Art Director and Set Designer Simon Costin. I have occasionally written posts related to experiences gained behind the scenes of fashion as Simon’s assistant, but not specifically about him or his work. Thankfully, Another Magazine has featured him in a quirky and informative film, the third in their series on Modern Cultural Curators.

http://www.anothermag.com/exclusives/modern-cultural-curators

The film by, Stefan Heinrichs, intersperses Simon’s own take on what he does and makes in the world along with peeks into his home and studio.  I spend quite a bit of time working within those walls, and share table space with his collection of macabre artifacts while working, so it was pretty thrilling to see a bit of my behind the scenes landscape in a film that captures some of its essence, but steals none of its magic!

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Caught on Film: Mysteries of Vernacular – Tuxedo

From the TEDEducation Youtube channel, this video by Jessica Oreck reveals the unexpected origin of the term ‘tuxedo’:

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Caught on Film: Preventing Garment Factory Fire

In this Youtube video clip produced by Democracy Now, Charlie Kernaghan from the Institute for Global Labor and Human Rights discusses organizing labor unions as a way to prevent deadly garment factory disasters like the building collapse and fire on April 24 at Rana Plaza in Savar, near Dhaka, Bangladesh.

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Caught on Film: Conservation of an 8th Century Egyptian Tunic

In this video, a textile conservator from the V&A Museum shares her work on an 8th century Egyptian tunic. Enjoy!

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Caught on Film: Easter Bonnets

Enjoy this 1950′s newsreel about Easter bonnet fashions!

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