Sexualities in Fashion: An Exploration of Industry, Design, Aesthetics, and Personal Style
November 13, 2014
International Textile and Apparel Association
There has been much discussion lately relating to sexuality in the US news as many states have been challenging issues related to same-sex marriage. How has a growing acceptance of LGBQT lifestyles affected both personal stylings and the apparel industry? How is the apparel industry (design, merchandising, advertising, marketing, etc.) responding to these shifting sensibilities? We would like to explore these questions in a seminar format at the 2014 ITAA conference. We invite creative scholarship, research submissions, and research-in-progress in an interactive format. We hope to challenge scholars to articulate research findings in a creative medium.
Presentations may include (but are not limited to):
- textile designs
- apparel design
- fiber arts
- interactive presentations
We invite scholarship from all disciplines and research methodologies.
Deadline for submission: April 15, 2014
Please email submissions to Kelly Reddy-Best at email@example.com
Full submission requirements and information available here.
Contemporary South Asian Youth Cultures and Fashion Symposium
September 25-26, 2014
London College of Fashion
Dynamic growth and an expanding middle class are making South Asian (Afghanistan, Bangladesh, Bhutan, India, Maldives, Nepal, Pakistan and Sri Lanka) consumers among the most confident in the world. A large part of this includes the increasing consumption of fashion and related products amongst the youth. In this international interdisciplinary symposium the organizers would like to extend and question the role of clothing cultures within the changing transnational discourse of consumerism, sexuality, faith, politics and media technology within the youth in South Asia and the diasporas. They invite papers and creative presentations (of up to 20 minutes) from interdisciplinary perspectives including (but not limited to) the following themes:
- fashion and consumer cultures
- fashioning youth in cinema /television/music/magazines
- dress cultures, gender and sexuality
- fashion, politics and faith
- South Asian fashion trends and culture in the diasporas
- dress and fashion as resistance and defiance
- fashion, media and technology
Deadline for abstracts: March 30, 2014
Abstract length: 250 words
Please send abstracts to: firstname.lastname@example.org
For full posting and submission requirements, please see southasialcf.myblog.arts.ac.uk.
The Journal of Fashion Technology & Textile Engineering is inviting submissions for its upcoming issue. The papers submitted for this journal can include the following topics:
- Fiber science and technology
- Textile materials
- Clothing/apparel technologies
- Studies on colors and dyes
- Aesthetics of textiles
- Textile finishing and care
- Fashion design and marketing
- Nanotechnology in textile research
The Journal of Fashion Technology & Textile Engineering accepts research, review papers, online letters to the editors, & brief comments on previously published articles or other relevant findings in SciTechnol. Articles submitted by authors are evaluated by a group of peer review experts in the field and ensures that the published articles are of high quality, reflect solid scholarship in their fields, and that the information they contain is accurate and reliable.
Instructions for authors and information on the submission process can be found here.
Manuscripts can be submitted online or via email to the editor.
In a Reverse Fashion: A Critical Agenda for Sustainable Fashion
May 19-20, 2014
Centre for Fashion Studies, Stockholm University
The Centre for Fashion Studies at Stockholm University, Sweden, and University IUAV of Venice, Italy, have organized a two-day workshop for International PhD students on the topics of fashion and sustainability. The workshop aims to explore and enlarge the concept of “sustainable fashion”.
PhD students will be asked to discuss issues like:
- the working conditions of fashion professionals
- new ways of conceiving fashion and new behaviours of consuming it
- sustainability issues in a digitally networked and open-access environment
- the emergence of specific, and historically situated forms of fashion activism
PhD Students are invited to submit an abstract of 500 words about their PhD research by 24 February 2014.
For questions regarding submissions, please contact Marco Pecorari.
For the full posting and submission requirements, please visit the Centre for Fashion Studies website.
Fashion Thinking – Theory, History, Practice
October 30th – November 1st 2014
University of Southern Denmark
The conference Fashion Thinking wishes to mark the evolution of fashion studies over the past 20 years with an international conference. The conference will explore and challenge the theory, history, and practice of Fashion Thinking in it widest sense as paradigms of critical thought and creative practice.
Abstracts may describe completed or proposed research. Possible topics within the overall theme of Fashion Thinking, include:
- design history
- identity and politics
- the fashion industry
- fashion thinking before modernity
The conference is organized by: University of Southern Denmark in collaboration with the Royal Academy of Fine Arts, School of Design, Designmuseum Danmark and Kolding School of Design.
Abstracts must be submitted by May 1st 2014.
For questions regarding submissions, contact Trine Brun Petersen.
For the full posting and submission requirements visit the University of Southern Denmark’s website.
Institut Français de la Mode in Paris
December 12 – 13, 2014
Fashion played an integral role in reshaping European society during World War I.
Each nation has a different story of the degree to which the fashion industry played a role in the war economy and the extent to which cultural representations of fashion and dress contributed to shaping national identity.
The conference intends to assemble an international community of scholars and curators who have an interest in exploring gender, dress, fashion producers, consumers, workers, and the press between 1914 and 1918.
The following perspectives are encouraged:
Papers that adopt a critical approach to the relationship between fashion and society in Europe during WWI are sought.
Additionally, proposals from young scholars in all areas of the social sciences or humanities are welcome.
Proposal Deadline: February 15, 2014
For the complete CFP and guidelines visit H-Net.org
One Day Colloquium
Friday March 14th, 2014
Institute of Historical Research
What is the history of the body? Many historians have pointed out that “the body” is a worryingly broad historical theme, covering topics as diverse as anthropometrics, dancing, gesture, clothing, sexuality, gender, childhood, animals, aging, death, illness, class, food, sport, and spirituality. Everything and anything is related to bodily experience, and it is tempting to suggest that what is needed is not a history of The Body, but a history of bodies.
Proposals for papers focusing on case studies with wider implications for how historians understand what the history of the body is are welcomed. Postgraduate and early career researchers and papers that make contributions to the conceptualization of the history of the body and questions of spatial and temporal continuities and differences are encouraged.
For the complete CFP and guidelines visit H-Net.org
Proposals for 20 minute papers should be sent to Kate Imy (Rutgers) and Will Pooley (University of Oxford)
Deadline: January 12, 2014
Focused Issue on Creative Thinking and Problem Solving
The Clothing and Textile Research Journal seeks manuscripts focused on creative thinking and problem solving including, but not limited to, fashion issues related to concepts of the creative process, the creative person, the creative product, and/or the creative environment.
Topics for this focused issue may include (but are not limited to) the following:
- Pedagogical or scholarship of teaching and learning related to creative thinking and creativity development
- Consumption and creative marketing strategies
- Designing creative products or examination of the creative environmentCreativity in textile, apparel and related industries
Full papers are due January 31, 2014
This guest post comes courtesy of Heidi Brevik-Zender, one of the two recipients of Worn Through’s first research award. Heidi is Assistant Professor of French and Comparative Literature at UC Riverside where she directs the French Program. Her research interests are in French literature and culture of the nineteenth and twentieth centuries, with an emphasis on the study of sartorial fashion, gender, aesthetics and issues of modernity. Publications include works on literary and pictorial representations of fashion in works by Zola, Maupassant, and Rachilde; films by Sofia Coppola and Catherine Breillat; and the television series Mad Men.
The deadline for Worn Through’s second annual research award has been announced. Please check here for details on the award and selection process.
I was delighted to be named co-winner (with Elizabeth Way) of the inaugural Worn Through Research Award. The award was used to offset reproduction fees for an image that will be included in my book entitled Fashioning Spaces: Mode and Modernity in Late-Nineteenth-Century Paris. The book will be available from University of Toronto Press in 2014.
Fashioning Spaces studies literature, paintings, and period garments produced in Paris from 1870 to 1900. It argues that the chroniclers of Parisian modernity – writers like Emile Zola and Guy de Maupassant as well as artists like Edgar Degas and Gustave Caillebotte – depicted key moments of fashion not exclusively in public settings but rather in intermediate locations where the exterior and spectacular meet interiority and intimacy. How does this point of view represent a new way to think about cities and fashion and how the two are connected?
To work toward an answer we might start by thinking about fashionable areas of Paris in the late nineteenth century. Our thoughts likely go to boulevards, parks, theaters, department stores, modern wrought-iron buildings, and racetracks. Studying fashion’s role in these locations makes sense, because during this period this is where people went wearing their finest garments, to view how others wore their wealth, class, and expressed themselves through clothing while simultaneously finding an audience for their own sartorial display. We associate wide avenues, manicured city gardens, and cosmopolitan train stations with Parisian modernity in part through our exposure to them in well-known paintings by Impressionists, such as Degas, Claude Monet, Mary Cassatt, or Pierre-Auguste Renoir. Also, many of these spectacular locations, such as the Tuileries gardens, the Garnier opera house, and, of course, the Eiffel Tower, still exist in the French capital today.
However, what I uncovered in my research is that, especially in literature but also in visual art, those authors and artists who were living in Paris in the late decades of the nineteenth century were actually quite concerned with other kinds of spaces, including more private, liminal and sometimes difficult to define areas of the cityscape. In fact, there was such an abundance of these locations in novels, short stories, and images that I decided to focus on a manageable cross section of them. I chose the three spaces that I thought were the most compelling, which were staircases, waiting rooms, and fashion ateliers.
This brings us to the Worn Through Research award. The image in my book that the award has funded is the painting Hush! by the French painter James Tissot:
Hush! (1875), James Tissot (1836-1902),
Oil on canvas
Manchester Art Gallery
I selected Tissot’s painting Hush! for the first image in my book because I think it has interesting things to say about relationships between fashion and space in this period. As we can see, clothing is clearly one of the most important features of this stylish late-century salon. As viewers, our attention might first be drawn to the bright yellow-and-white gown of the violinist in the heart of the composition, or perhaps to the massive fan and flounced layers of the skirt worn by the women in the left foreground. The black tulle of the central figure spills dramatically across the floor, and the vaguely Eastern “Oriental” garments worn by the male spectators in the back right provide the touch of exoticism that was so in vogue in nineteenth-century Europe. Initially we sense that the main salon is where all of the fashion “action” is taking place; here, the well dressed have come to see and be seen in their most eye-catching outfits.
And yet, there is another space of interest in the painting. In Fashioning Spaces I call attention to the upper-left section of the composition, which depicts a staircase filled with overflow concertgoers. The staircase seems to be outside the setting of the painting – literally in another room – but it is also connected to the concert space through echoes in clothing items that lead us out the doorway and up the curve of the ornate iron banister. Once we are aware of them, the elegantly dressed spectators located in the stairwell might capture our interest even more than the audience in the salon. They represent subversions of proper bourgeois behavior through their flaunting of rules – they sit on stairs, not chairs! They are seen but not completely knowable, in view but just beyond the sanctioned space of the concert room. Concentrating on the staircase couple on the furthest left, we wonder what they might be saying to one other, just out of earshot. The painting’s intrigue is as much on the staircase as it is in the “main” space of the composition.
Fashioning Spaces is about focusing on unexpected intersections of space and fashion such as those in Tissot’s canvas. I examine tensions surrounding gender expression in literature by the female writer Rachilde, an author who created scandalous cross-dressing heroines, emancipated bloomer-wearing New Women, and sharply tailored women horse-riders known as amazones. The book studies the surprising subtext of national trauma in Emile Zola’s department-store novel Au Bonheur des dames and issues of class represented by the chic social climbers in Guy de Maupassant’s short stories and novel Bel-Ami. Alongside paintings, such as those depicting powerful and elegant dandies by Gustave Caillebotte, I include analyses of period garments, like the robe à transformation, a dress style that grew to heights of popularity in the nineteenth century because it accorded women a measure of flexibility by allowing them to change from daytime dress to eveningwear in record time.
It is an exciting time to be working on nineteenth-century French fashion because a great deal of insightful scholarship from a variety of academic disciplines has appeared in recent years. Here are some of the books that have been most useful to me, listed in chronological order starting with the newest titles:
Having It All in the Belle Epoque: How French Women’s Magazines Invented the Modern Woman by Rachel Mesch (Stanford University Press, 2013) http://www.sup.org/book.cgi?id=22400
Impressionism, Fashion, and Modernity edited by Gloria Groom (Yale University Press, 2012) http://yalepress.yale.edu/yupbooks/book.asp?isbn=9780300184518
Changing France: Literature and Material Culture in the Second Empire by Anne Green (Anthem Press, 2011) http://www.anthempress.com/changing-france-pb
Accessories to Modernity: Fashion and the Feminine in Nineteenth-Century France by Susan Hiner (University of Pennsylvania Press, 2010) http://www.upenn.edu/pennpress/book/14733.html
The Places and Spaces of Fashion, 1800-1907 edited by John Potvin (New York: Routledge, 2009) http://www.routledge.com/books/details/9780415873826/
Classic Chic: Music, Fashion and Modernism by Mary E. Davis (University of California Press, 2008) http://www.ucpress.edu/book.php?isbn=9780520256217
Sheer Presence: The Veil in Manet’s Paris by Marni Reva Kessler (University of Minnesota Press, 2006) http://www.upress.umn.edu/book-division/books/sheer-presence
Couture Culture: A Study in Modern Art and Fashion by Nancy J. Troy (The MIT Press, 2002) http://mitpress2.mit.edu/catalog/item/default.asp?ttype=2&tid=9101
Tigersprung: Fashion in Modernity by Ulrich Lehmann (The MIT Press, 2000) http://mitpress2.mit.edu/catalog/item/default.asp?ttype=2&tid=4261
Two classic studies include:
Paris Fashion: A Cultural History by Valerie Steele (Oxford University Press, 1988; reprinted by Berg in 1998 and 2006)
Adorned in Dreams: Fashion and Modernity by Elizabeth Wilson (Virago Press, 1985; reprinted by I.B. Tauris in 2003 and 2005)
2014 Global Marketing Conference at Singapore
July 15-18, 2014
This year’s conference, Bridging Asia and the World: Globalization of Marketing and Management Theory and Practice, emphasizes the need for educators and business leaders to recognize, appreciate, and understand the significance of marketing in the dynamic global world.
The 2014 conference offers outstanding opportunities for business leaders and academics to share their insights and learn from the research findings and experiences of others.
The program chairs welcome participation from all cultures and parts of the world.
Submission deadline: January 15, 2014
View the full posting and submission guidelines at the Global Marketing Conference website.
For further information contact Prof. Kyung Hoon Kim or Prof. Juran Kim.