CFP: FROM THE PLEASURE OF PRESERVING TO THE PLEASURE OF DISPLAYING

CALL FOR PAPERS

FROM THE PLEASURE OF PRESERVING TO THE PLEASURE OF
DISPLAYING: The politics of fashion in the museum

Date: May, 15 2017
We invite researchers and practitioners to send us their proposals by March 29, 2017.
Participants will be notified by April 4, 2017.

Location: Calouste Gulbenkian Foundation, Lisbon, Portugal
Organisation: Centro de investigação em Arquitetura, Urbanismo e Design (CIAUD), Faculdade
de Arquitectura – Universidade de Lisboa; Instituto de História Contemporânea (IHC), Faculdade
de Ciências Sociais e Humanas – Universidade Nova de Lisboa

Keynote speakers (TBC):
DONATELLA BARBIERI
Lecturer and PhD supervisor, founder of the MA Costume Design for Performance, London
College of Fashion – University of the Arts London, UK.
ULRICH LEHMANN
Associate Professor in Interdisciplinary Design and Arts,The New School, New York, USA.
The recent rise of the blockbuster fashion exhibition has underpinned a renewed interest in the
topic of garment curation and preservation, encouraging academics from emerging disciplines,
such as museum studies and fashion studies, as well as established institutions, to re-evaluate the
presence of fashion in the museum. This increasing institutional and curatorial interest has led to a
new research dynamics centered around the museum as an agency that can broaden and deepen
our understanding of fashion.

New museological approaches tend to use fashion to increase institutional appeal, by focusing on
strategies that prompt new understandings of the history of apparel and a critical approach towards
its presence in museums, and to reflect an institutional desire to contextualise and integrate
fashion into specific social and economic historical circumstances.

This symposium will focus on the challenges, possibilities and multidisciplinary aspects involved in
the exhibition of fashion in a museological and curatorial context. We welcome proposals for
papers and presentations that explore the following themes from diverse perspectives and
approaches, by researchers and practitioners, as well as by practice-based researchers.

Submissions may focus on, but are not limited to, the following topics:
• The relationship between the museum, time and the public display of fashion
• The garment as a museum object, but also as an emotional and narrative medium
• What do we preserve and why do we do it when we bring garments into the museum?
• The relationship between the written word and the displaying of fashion, including
catalogues and accompanying books
• The convergence of artefact-based research and theoretical approaches
• Interdisciplinary good practice in displaying/exhibiting
• The use of oral history in museum research and displaying
• The imagined public. To whom is fashion curation addressed?
• How can fashion engage visitors and on what levels?
• Fashion and the ideology of the moment
• From ‘stage’ to museum: the aura of a garment
• Fashion and the gaze of the other
• The image archive: fashion in pictures, paintings and films

Scholars and researchers from all related academic and practice-based fields and are invited to
submit proposals.

The conference will be held in English.

Presenters wishing to submit a proposal for a paper presentation of 20 minutes (max.) are required
to provide their name, email address, the title of the paper, an abstract (300-350 words), 5 key
bibliographical references, 5 keywords and a short biography (100-150 words) to the following
email: museum.fashion.politics@gmail.com

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