By Monica Sklar,
October 31st, 2008 at 10:01 am
(Uncategorized)
Sometimes I’m going to rotate in a Site Highlight instead of my Friday Newsflash piece. There are so many sites I enjoy going to on a regular basis I thought I need to share more of them with you.
I’ve been having fun checking out the site Advanced Style which says about itself:
PROOF FROM THE WIZENED AND SILVER-HAIRED SET THAT PERSONAL STYLE ADVANCES WITH AGE.
There is some pretty decent research in journals like CTRJ on the effects of aging on clothing options and fit, but I cannot recall one on style and fashion. I’m going to look around and get back to you on that as it’d be a fabulous research project.
There are some truly great shots and the blog is inspirational. Here are a few samples:
I’ve been mildly salt and pepper since my late teens, and have been dying my hair as far back as I can remember, mostly darks but sometimes a bright red, or with splashes of pink, blue, green, or purple. However, I’ve often joked I cannot wait for it to just go completely white so those Manic Panic colors will finally take in all their glory. It’s too tough to get them perfect on a naturally dark haired person. Yes, I totally plan on being the blue haired woman at ‘the home.’ -Monica
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By Monica Sklar,
October 30th, 2008 at 4:13 pm
(Jobs, Uncategorized)
Well the word on the street among my peers seems to be that the professor opening at U Delaware is a hot commodity. I know multiple people applying, and I too looked into it, chatted with the school, and found I wasn’t a good fit as it’s primarily a design job.
The reasons U Del is hot are as follows:
The program has a pretty good rep with well known and respected professors/researchers.
The fact it’s developing a Ph.D. program, of which there are currently very few, and most people who graduate from Ph.D prgrams would like to teach at the Ph.D. level if possible to make the most of their background and experience.
The location. Yeah I initially thought to myself “what’s in Delaware?” but upon doing some research learned how truly close the school is it to Philly and Baltimore, and DC and NYC aren’t far either.
Finally, product design, technology, and sustainability are all booming areas.
So, here’s the listing below-happy competing. Glad I’m not in the mix on this one at this time. I have multiple friends applying and I truly wish you all luck. You’re all qualified. The deadline is ASAP though so get a move on. -Monica
Assistant/Associate Professor
Apparel Design and Product Development
University of Delaware
The Fashion and Apparel Studies Department announces a search for a full-time, tenure-track assistant or associate professor in apparel design and product development, available September 1, 2009. This is an opportunity for an innovative person to join an exciting group of faculty and contribute to dynamic, internationally recognized apparel design and fashion merchandising programs, a new masters’ degree, and an emerging doctoral program.
Qualifications:
* Ph.D. or MFA in apparel-related field required at time of appointment. Record of scholarship or emerging scholarly potential that includes seeking and obtaining external funding.
* Evidence of effective college teaching, as well as industry experience desired.
* Knowledge and skills with apparel industry technology are preferred.
* Can contribute to department’s strengths in social responsibility/sustainability and international education.
Responsibilities:
* Teach undergraduate courses in at least one of the following content areas: creative/functional/technical apparel design; apparel product development and/or analysis; electronic applications related to apparel design, product development, and/or tail/merchandising.
* Develop and teach graduate courses in an innovative new master’s program in fashion studies that integrates consumer research and product design that has both social responsibility/sustainability and international components.
* Contribute to a Ph.D. program that is currently being developed.
* Actively pursue a program of scholarly research and/or creative scholarship.
* Acquire internal and external grants and/or contracts.
* Advise undergraduate and graduate students.
* Actively engage with industry and relevant professional associations.
Contact:
Send letter of interest, curriculum vitae, a description of teaching philosophy and interests, statement about scholarship program, a portfolio of both personal and student work if relevant,
a listing of software proficiency, and contact information of three references via email
(preferred method) or mail to:
Professor M. Jo Kallal, Search Committee Chair
Department of Fashion and Apparel Studies
University of Delaware
Newark, DE 19716
Application deadline is October 31, 2008. The curriculum vitae and all application materials shall be shared with departmental faculty.
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By Monica Sklar,
October 30th, 2008 at 5:00 am
(Exhibitions, Uncategorized)
“POCKETBOOK ANTHROPOLOGY: A TREASURE OF HANDBAGS”
Through November 30 at the Boulder History Museum [Boulder, CO], this
exhibit explores the cultural meanings of and emotional attachments to
purses. Bags from 1880 to the present are funky, elegant, and whimsical are
alongside those made from precious metal, duct tape, cigarette packaging,
and glass beads. Hands-on examples and commentary by a fashion historian are
included, plus anecdotes, quips, and literary quotations on text panels. Click here for details.
“ORNAMENT AS ART: AVANT-GARDE JEWELRY FROM THE HELEN WILLIAMS DRUTT
COLLECTION”
Through January 4 at the Mint Museum of Art [Charlotte, NC], this exhibit
explores the impact of contemporary jewelry as a global art form through a
multilayered, critical assessment of non-craft history. Approximately 300
objects, including about 275 pieces of jewelry, 20 drawings and watercolors,
and 3 constructions and sculptures are included. Click here for details.
Some of this material was gathered from the Costume Society of America e-Newsletter.
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By Heather Vaughan,
October 29th, 2008 at 5:00 am
(History of Dress, Uncategorized)
Gentle readers (I always loved that introduction),
I’m toying with the idea of starting a new series within the History of Dress section: ‘Today in (Fashion) History’. Of course, some postings will probably be more significant than others and it won’t be every Wednesday, but I thought it would make for some good visuals.
Those of you looking for last minute Halloween inspiration, might find these useful:
October 29, 1954, Sheffield, England, UK
Original Caption: “Queen Elizabeth II looks her loveliest and most glamorous self in a white fur stole and magnificent gown as she arrives by limousine at a reception in Sheffield. The event, given by the Earl of Scarborough, was held at the Cutler’s Hall.” © Bettmann/CORBIS
October 29, 1956, London, England, UK
Original Caption: “American film actresss Marilyn Monroe attends a film premiere with her husband, American playwright Arthur Miller, at the Empire Theatre, London, England, 1956. The premiere was for the Royal Film Performance of ‘The Battle of the River Plate’.” © Hulton-Deutsch Collection/CORBIS
Of course to counter this opulence, and given the current unsteady economic state, I should remind you that today is the anniversary of the start of the crash that signaled the beginning of the Great Depression. For current fashion inspired by the Depression. Try this.
October 29, 1929, “People Gathering in Front of the New York Stock Exchange”
Original caption: “New York, New York: Wall Street financial stability of the U.S. was toppling for a few minutes on Oct. 29, 1929 when a coalition of bankers and industrial executives and government officials went to the rescue and checked an hysterical shrinkage of stock market prices which, had it continued, would have brought ruin to hundreds of thousands of investors and suffering to millions of homes both in this country and abroad. Photo shows a scene in front of stock exchange jammed throughout the day.” © Bettmann/CORBIS
Despite the impending crash, 1929 saw some members of high society continuing to buy and ware finery. Here are some examples from the MET, Costume Institutes’ collection:
Wrap, Evening, 1929
House of Lanvin (French, founded 1890), Design House; Jeanne Lanvin (French, 1867–1946), Designer
French
fur; [no dimensions available]
Gift of Madame Lilliana Teruzzi, 1972 (1972.30.13)
Tiara, 1910–1929
American or European
metal, glass; Length: 8 1/4 in. (21 cm)
Gift of Margaret Tasher Smith, 1990 (1990.47.6)
Ensemble, Evening, ca. 1929
House of Patou (French, founded 1919), Design House; Jean Patou (French, 1887 – 1936), Designer
French
silk; [no dimensions available]
Gift of Madame Lilliana Teruzzi, 1972 (1972.30.17a, b)
Details on Jean Patou here.
Shoes (Pumps), 1928–1929
American
[no medium available]; [no dimensions available]
Gift of Mrs. Edith Dalmat Katz, 1966 (C.I.66.51a–d
Along with this, I do want to mention that the official publication date for The Greenwood Encyclopedia of Clothing through American History 1900 to the Present [Two Volumes] is set for tomorrow (I contributed the sections on the 1920s and 1930s). Please do request that your library order a copy. Thanks!
Until Next Time,
Heather
www.fashionhistorian.net
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By Heather Vaughan,
October 28th, 2008 at 5:00 am
(Jobs, Uncategorized)
Assistant or Associate Professors, Material Culture and Curatorship
University of Alberta
The Department of Human Ecology, University of Alberta, invites applications for a tenure track Assistant or Associate Professor position in the area of Material Culture and Curatorship.
Key responsibilities of the position include:
- Serving as Curator of the Clothing and Textiles Collection. The Curator will develop a long-term vision and a national and international research profile for the Collection. Specific responsibilities include promoting and facilitating use of the Collection for interdisciplinary research, teaching and public outreach; securing supplementary funding for Collection maintenance, enhancement and promotion; determining policies regarding Collection growth and mandate; acquisition of artifacts; and Collection inventory and documentation.
- Establishing an independent object-based research program in material culture.
- Teaching undergraduate and graduate courses including material culture and historic dress.
Supervising graduate students.
Applicants must have:
- A PhD in human ecology, material culture studies, museum studies, history related to clothing and textiles, or other relevant area;
- A successful record of scholarship in material culture, curatorship and/or museum studies, or other specialized discipline relevant to the position;
- Demonstrated ability curating in a museum or other collection, preferably dealing with clothing and textile artifacts;
- Demonstrated excellence in university teaching and the ability to contribute to interdisciplinary educational and research programs; and
- A collaborative working style that is a good fit with the Department of Human Ecology
The preferred start date for this position is July 1, 2009 but the competition will remain open until the position is filled. To apply, please submit a cover letter that addresses the requirements of the position and describes the focus of your scholarship, curriculum vitae, teaching dossier, sample publication and the names and contact information for three referees. Review of applications will commence December 1, 2008.
Interested applicants may apply to:
Deanna Williamson, Chair
Department of Human Ecology
Room 302E Human Ecology
University of Alberta
Edmonton, AB T6G 2N1
via email
Phone: 780-492-5770
Fax: 780-492-4821
All qualified candidates are encouraged to apply; however, Canadians and permanent residents will be given priority. If suitable Canadian citizens and permanent residents cannot be found, other individuals will be considered.
The University of Alberta hires on the basis of merit. We are committed to the principle of equity in employment. We welcome diversity and encourage applications from all qualified women and men, including persons with disabilities, members of visible minorities, and Aboriginal persons.
Comments
By Monica Sklar,
October 24th, 2008 at 1:05 pm
(Uncategorized)
Last week’s Newsflash was all about politics as well, but I’d be remiss to not give some WT space to this Palin wardrobe issue of this week.
This is especially true since the presentation I’m doing at this year’s ITAA is about workplace identity, impression management, and specifically symbolic self completion. The latter theory refers to one who fills the voids in their identity through stuff. In the workplace that often means luxury stuff.
My disseration is also on workplace dress, as I’m discussing how people use aesthetics strategically to shape their work and nonwork identities which may be quite different. I’m polling punks in mainstream workplaces, but we could easily chat about Sarah Palin for either of these issues.
I’ll skip my original intent of listing a bunch of academic references about the above named theories as well as ideas about workplace dress. However, if you’d like some info in those areas let me know and I’ll send them to you. There’s been so much media coverage, both sad, disgusting, and out right hilarious this week and in an effort to not rehash I’ll simply direct you toward it.
Today’s NY Times article about the highest paid staffer on Palin’s team is her make up artist.
Jezebel has a strong round up of links on the subject from a few days back and a few fun news ones such as a piece featuring the SNL costumer’s take on things and a discussion of wardrobe styling from WWD.
On the contrary, HuffPo had a piece about the Obama’s dressing on a budget.
SheFinds had a fun peice about how Palin could learn to budget shop even at Neimans.
Finally a piece from the Star Tribune, here in my city of of residence, Minneapolis, where Palin had her giant Neimans shopping spree. The piece is light hearted about how tough it is to actially spend $75k even at a luxury goods store.
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By Monica Sklar,
October 23rd, 2008 at 5:00 am
(Exhibitions, Uncategorized)
“GERHARDT KNODEL TEXTILES: RECOVERY GAMES AND OTHER WORKS”
Through November 16 at the Alden B. Dow Museum of Science and Art [Midland,
MI], this exhibit offers a retrospective look into some of Gerhardt Knodel’s
discoveries from the past 35 years, revealed in both intimate artworks and
large-scale architectural installations. Knodel has been internationally
recognized, reinforced by his leadership in developing and leading the
Cranbrook Academy of Art Fiber Department as one of the best in America and
his tenure as Director of Cranbrook Academy of Art. Click here for details.
“WORLD TEXTILES FROM THE COLLECTION OF GERHARDT KNODEL”
Through November 16 at the Alden B. Dow Museum of Science and Art [Midland,
MI], this exhibit of 100 historic textiles will reveal the power of textiles
to interact meaningfully with the ceremonies and rituals of living. The
works originate in diverse locations such as Indonesia, Japan, China, India,
Africa, Central Asia, France and England. Click here for details.
Some of this material was gathered from the Costume Society of America e-Newsletter.
Comments
By Heather Vaughan,
October 22nd, 2008 at 5:00 am
(History of Dress, Uncategorized)
Los Angeles Fashion Week 2008, which kicked off on Sunday, October 12 and wrapped up Thursday, October 16, opened with the announcement that IMG will no longer be backing it (more here). This turn of events seemed like a good time to take a look at the origins of Fashion Week in Los Angeles, which as the Los Angeles Times points out, “has never really taken off, partly because organizers have tried to make it fit the template of other fashion weeks around the globe, where success is a front row stocked with retail buyers and New York magazine editors.”
The Associated Apparel Manufacturers of Los Angeles had been exhibiting shows of ready-to-wear clothing at the Biltmore Bowl in Los Angeles since the early 1920s, but it was not until 1935/1936 that the name “Los Angeles Fashion Week” came into regular use (and received regular press coverage). LA Fashion week then became established as a bi-annual event, where buyers from across the country came to see what California, and specifically, Hollywood had to offer.
“Bernard Newman and Colleagues Viewing a Fashion Show” 03 Feb 1935, Los Angeles, California, USA. Original Caption: Smart Los Angeles made clothes were on display at the Los Angeles Biltmore, in an advance showing of spring creations. A feature of the show was the appearance of RKO-Radio players in valuable gowns that were worn in a recent production. Photo shows, left to right: Bernard Newman, RKO designer, Irene Dunne, film star and Randolph Scott, leading man, as they viewed the show. — Image by © Bettmann/CORBIS
A 1936 article in the Los Angeles Times explained that one of the tactics used to get buyers out to California involved a unique marketing idea.
“’Miss Fashion of Hollywood’ in the person of June Horne, leaves Los Angeles today via American Airlines to summon retail merchants and buyers throughout the country to attend Los Angeles Fashion Week, January 11 to 13. She will carry the largest invitation ever sent across the country by air, which she will personally present to the country’s foremost merchants. Miss Horne will take a wardrobe of advanced spring and summer styles, created by the Associated Apparel Manufacturers of Los Angeles, which is sponsoring Fashion Week. These styles will be presented in twelve key cities throughout the country in the course of her five-day flying tour, to give merchants an advance glimpse of the elaborate style display awaiting them in Los Angeles. Metropolitan centers which Miss Horne will visiti in the course of her flying fashion preview include Dallas, Memphis, Louisville, Cincinnati, Chicago, Detroit, St. Louis, Oklahoma City, Tulsa, Fort Worth and El Paso. She will return here Friday.” (December 14, 1936, Los Angeles Times, pg. A10.)
How I wish I had a photo to show you of Miss Fashion of Hollywood! In January of 1937, LA Fashion Week had a special guest speaker, Twentieth Century-Fox Studios Costume Designer, Royer. According to the Los Angeles Times:
“Royer, the costume designer for a major motion-picture studio, also addressed the gathering. . . . Comparing Hollywood with Paris, she has, he said, the greatest research libraries in the world to aid her, and the screen to promote her wares. But Paris designers have freer scope, they don’t have to please the director, the producer, the supervisior, the star, and the camera. Nevertheless, screen styles are becoming more practical. . . . But the studios don’t sell clothes. The waste has been unfortunate. But now that the merchandising is being taken care of, a semi-annual style show of the type taking place at the Biltmore Bowl this evening should prove disturbing competition for Paris.” (Whitaker, Alma. Los Angeles Times, January 13, 1937, pg. A2)
And finally, at the end of the 1937 fashion week a “motion-picture style pageant at the Biltmore Bowl” was arranged. The Los Angeles TImes explained:
“Fashion designers from all the major film studios will exhibit their newest garments for forthcoming motion pictures at tonights show, to be given under the direction of Sally Martin, fashion editor of Fawcett Publications.” (Los Angeles Times, January 13, 1937, pg. A2)
What will happen to Los Angeles Fashion Week now is anybody’s guess – but given the current state of the economy, and the cancellation/discontiuation of San Francisco’s Fashion Week, it doesn’t look that good. It’s possible that Gen Art Fresh Faces nation-wide fashion shows will take up the slack. Really, its anybody’s guess.
Until Next Time,
Heather
www.fashionhistorian.net
Comments
By Heather Vaughan,
October 21st, 2008 at 9:39 am
(Jobs, Uncategorized)
Details and how to apply here.
Part-time Adjuncts – Survey of Fashion at Marymount University
The Fashion Design & Merchandising Department at Marymount University seeks qualified applicants to teach Survey of Fashion (historic costume).
Minimum Qualifications: Master’s degree in historic costume; museum studies with a concentration in costume; clothing and textiles; or related apparel field is required.
Preferred Qualifications: Teaching experience at the higher education level is preferred.
Open Until Filled
Marymount is a comprehensive, coeducational Catholic university that combines the liberal arts tradition with career preparation. Marymount serves nearly 4,000 undergraduate and graduate students. The Main Campus is located on a hillside in residential Arlington, Virginia. Marymount University is an Affirmative Action/Equal Opportunity employer.
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By Heather Vaughan,
October 21st, 2008 at 5:00 am
(Jobs, Uncategorized)
**This collection does include flat textiles, quilts and costumes.
Collections Assistant
Rogers Historical Museum
Rogers, Arkansas
Job Description:
Report to the Curator of Collections; help with exhibit installation, collections care, registration; scheduling education programs and helping present programs.
Requisites:
Knowledge of museums and their importance to the community; collections database work; oral and verbal skills; ability to multi-task; ability to get along with others; ability to lift moderatly heavy objects; valid drivers license.
Please send cover letter, resume and City application to: City of Rogers, Attn: Gina Kincy, 301 W. Chestnut Rogers, AR 72756. Direct all questions about job to website www.rogersarkansas.com/museum or by phone to 479/621-1154.
Until next time,
Heather
www.fashionhistorian.net
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