September 30th, 2008 at 5:00 am
(Jobs, Uncategorized)
Here are three academic positions that a dress scholar might be able to swing-depends on the selection criteria and your area of study.
1.)
American Academy of Arts & Sciences Visiting Scholars Program, 2009-10
Postmark deadline: October 17, 2008
The American Academy of Arts & Sciences, an international learned society located in Cambridge, Massachusetts, invites application for its 2009-2010 scholar-in-residence program. Preference will be given to untenured junior faculty, but qualified post-doctoral scholars are also urged to apply.
The Academy seeks proposals that relate to its research areas: Science & Global Security, Social Policy & American Institutions, Humanities & Culture, and Education. Projects that address American cultural, social, or political issues from the founding period to the present are welcome, as are studies that examine developments in public policy. Candidates should consider the relationship of their work to archival, library, and other intellectual resources in the Boston area.
Terms of Award: Up to $40,000 for post-doctoral scholars; up to $60,000 for junior faculty (not to exceed one half of salary).
Visiting Scholars are expected to participate in conferences, seminars, and events at the Academy while advancing their independent research.
For further information, or to download guidelines and an application form, please visit http://www.amacad.org, or contact the Visiting Scholars Program, American Academy of Arts and Sciences, 136 Irving Street, Cambridge, MA 02138.
2.)
Rice University’s Humanities Research Center External Faculty Fellowships
Call for 2009-2010 External Faculty Fellowships
RECEIPT DEADLINE: November 17, 2008
The Humanities Research Center at Rice University will award up to four external faculty fellowships for one-semester appointments during the academic year 2009-2010. Fellows will receive a stipend of $40,000 to $50,000, depending on rank, as well as an allowance for research and relocation to be used during the appointment period. The fellows will teach one course affiliated with a humanities department, and will be in residence at the center during their appointments.
The fellows participate in the intellectual life of the center by sharing research activities through a brown bag series with other HRC fellows, or through a presentation or participation in a symposium or conference sponsored by the HRC and centered on their research. Applicants should describe how their research project would contribute to the intellectual focus of one or more of the HRC faculty workshops, or to interdisciplinary humanities initiatives, or to Rice faculty research in the School of Humanities.
Click here for details.
3.)
Mellon Postdoctoral Fellow Women’s, Gender, and Sexuality Studies program (WGSS)
Review of applications will begin on November 15, 2008, and continue until the position is filled.
The Women’s, Gender, and Sexuality Studies program (WGSS) at Colby College invites applications for a two-year appointment as a Mellon Postdoctoral Fellow beginning September 1, 2009, area of specialization open. We seek an individual with evidence of advanced training in women’s, gender, and/or sexuality studies, committed to undergraduate teaching and to scholarship. The fellowship carries a two-course load per year; one of these must be a core course for the program, chosen in consultation with the WGSS director and coordinating committee. Ideally, the two courses will be repeated in the second year. The Fellow will also work with other faculty in the WGSS program on curricular development, and will have the opportunity to pursue his/her own scholarship. Research and travel funds are provided. Submit application materials, including a letter of application, curriculum vitae, letters from three references, statements of teaching and research interests, teaching evaluations if available, and a writing sample (25 pp. or less) to: Professor Elizabeth D. Leonard, Director, Women’s, Gender, and Sexuality Studies, 5322 Mayflower Hill Dr., Waterville, Maine 04901.
Click here for details.
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September 29th, 2008 at 5:00 am
(Conferences and Calls for Papers, Uncategorized)

Contributors are needed for a new reference encyclopedia entitled The American Beauty Industry (Greenwood Press).
It will be composed of approximately 120 A-Z encyclopedic essay entries ranging from 500-1500 words in length.
Below is a list of some suggested topics:
Avon
Baldness
Barbershops
Beauty Schools
Calvin Klein
Chains and Corporate Franchises
Cosmetics
Cosmetology
Cosmopolitan
Cover Girl
Dandruff
Designers
Dr. 90210
Ebony
Extreme Makeover
Fashion Magazines
Focus Groups
Global Trends and Influences
Golden Door Spa
Hairdressers
Hair Care Products
Hair Shows
Hair Styling
Infomercials
Internet
Legislation
Labor
Manufacturing
Modeling
QVC
Research and Development
Retail
Sally’s Beauty Supply
Sassoon, Vidal
Skin Care Lines, Men’s
Trade Shows
U.S. Beauty Industry in Global Markets
U.S. Food and Drug Administration
Vogue
Waxing
Wigs
Click here for details.
Comments
September 26th, 2008 at 12:52 pm
(Uncategorized)

Just quick note on all the things wrong with this week’s Project Runway.
it should be acknowledged that I am a huge and loyal fan of the show, never missing a minute, and even trying to somewhat keep up with the contestents post-show. But this week’s was by far the worst episode in the show’s tenure for a few reasons.
First, the Punk look which won was for the most part awful–yes, I know, I’m writing tons of term papers, my dissertation, and soon a book on punk fashion but still—it was a cartoon, not a legitimate representation. To have L.L. Cool J say it was right on the money was misguided and not his style so how would he know.
Which leads me to the second issue: why have a partial judge who comes from one of the represented discilpines? They should have had a fashion editor from Rolling Stone or a wardrobe stylist or John Varvatos or someone of the like who spans genres.
Third, it was vastly confusing whether these were supposed to be performace looks, costumes, everyday wear, etc etc. They were talking lots about ramping it up, and yet, the few who did made Halloween costumes and the few who didn’t made mall versions of the style which actually, is probably the majority of wearers of many of those genre’s aesthetics. Was this supposed to be a performer or a fan or someone for who the genre is a lifestyle?
So all in all, I thought Pop should have won, that Rock really wasn’t bad or boring and represents what people actually wear much more legitimately than some others, and that Hip Hop looked like a lot of girls I see shopping at Express while chomping on gum and listing to Beyonce. So granted not someone deep in the scene, but yes, the mainstream version of Hip Hop influence, and just as misunderstood as the Punk look.
Urgh. Disappointing. Hopefully next week is better as it’ll lead to the Bryant Park 3.
-Monica
Comments
September 26th, 2008 at 5:00 am
(Uncategorized)

Malcolm McLaren accuses his son Joe, the entrepreneur behind the Agent Provocateur lingerie label, of producing fake punk duds. Click here for more details.
The vintage store/gallery Ressurection and the aution house Christies have teamed up for a gallery show/sale of avant-guard wonders in fashion.
Click here for more details or Click here for a news story about it.
In an era when former supermodels are being dragged out to try to revive magazine sales, Ellen DeGeneres was chosen to be CoverGirl’s new face. Refreshing.
The Detroit Urban Craft Fair has released its list of vendors for the November 15 big event. Check it out.
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September 25th, 2008 at 5:00 am
(Exhibitions, Uncategorized)
Below are some dress related exhibitions. This info was gathered from the Costume Society of America.

SIMPLY HALSTON
Through November 2 at the Indianapolis Museum of Art [Indianapolis, IN],
this exhibit will highlight Roy Halston Frowick’s career. Halston began his
career as a milliner and later designed the hat Jacqueline Kennedy wore at
her husband’s inauguration in 1961. A master of cut, he was a favorite of
many celebrities and designed clothes for Elizabeth Taylor, Liza Minnelli,
Anjelica Houston and Lauren Bacall, among others.
Click here for more details.
ART DECO: 1910 - 1939
Through October 5 at the National Gallery of Victoria [Melbourne, Victoria,
Australia], this exhibit comprises 300+ works and covers artistic media from
painting, photography, fashion, film, architecture and jewelry. Spanning the
boom of the roaring 1920s and the Depression-ridden 1930s, Art Deco came to
epitomize all the glamour, opulence and hedonism of the Jazz age. The new
aesthetics were also found in industrial design, furniture, transport,
communications and in household items.
Click here for more details.
HATS OFF NASHUA!
Through 2010 at the Nashua Historical Society [Nashua, NH], this exhibit,
representing a 100-year period of millinery history with about 50 hats,
ornate hat pins, tortoise shell combs, hat boxes, delicate gloves and even
charming little doll hats once adored by Nashua children of generations gone
by.
Click here for more details.
Comments
September 24th, 2008 at 5:00 am
(History of Dress, Uncategorized)
Today is my birthday, so just a quick note. I leave you with these fascinating nuggets of visual culture to ponder and encourage your comments:
The ‘anti-long-skirt association’ of Parker High School trims Helen Ladd, a pro-long-skirter, into shape after school on September 24, 1947. Scissors-wielding Bobbie Renner says her motto is ‘Succumb not to fashion whims.’ Helen was only a little ahead of her time; before long, the long-skirt ‘whim’ became the look of choice. (Dayton, Ohio: Corbis)

My Comment: I just love that crazed look in her eyes, and that they appear to be holding her against her will.
Original caption:
Newton, Kansas: She’s Lived Through Four Wars. Above is pictured Mrs. Elizabeth Reese, more familiarly known as Grandma Reese in this section of the country, who recently celebrated her 97th birthday. Not only has she lived through the wars of 1845, 1861, 1898 and 1917, but members of her family have served in all of them. Her first husband was killed in the war with Mexico; her second husband fought during the Civil War.

My Comment: She just looks so iconic - like every old lady in movies from this time. I wonder if she made the hat herself. Does anyone know what kind of lace it is?
According to the Conde Naste website:
Apparel Arts became Gentlemen’s Quarterly in 1957, and the issues that immediately followed often bore both titles. This image appeared as the cover of a Quarterly fall issue, released in September 1957, and featured foreground and background shots of a model in a three-button gray suit by Sussex and hat by Dobbs.

My Comment: I think it is strongly reminiscent of the Gregory Peck movie, Man in the Gray Flannel Suit from 1956.
Until next time,
Heather
www.fashionhistorian.net
Comments
September 23rd, 2008 at 5:00 am
(Jobs, Uncategorized)

The Savannah College of Art and Design is seeking candidates for full-time faculty positions in fashion at its Savannah and Atlanta locations.
Specific Skills:
Qualified candidates should have a terminal degree or its equivalent in fashion or a related field, as well as a broad knowledge of fashion design. Excellent design skills and professional recognition is essential in order to join this highly creative, motivated, and exciting team that is creating the next generation of fashion designers. Strong skills in the areas of design, concept, innovation, illustration, sketching, and CAD are highly desirable. Areas of expertise may include design, illustration sketching, draping, pattern making and garment construction for misses/specialty sizes, menswear and/or childrenswear. College-level teaching experience in the classroom or through an online format and/or experience developing e-learning courses is also desirable.
Application:
Please mail cover letter, curriculum vitae, samples of own and student’s work (if applicable), and an unofficial copy of the transcript showing your highest degree.
If you apply by email, all items above must be included electronically and sent to scadfaculty@scad.edu. Only complete packages will be considered.
Women and minorities are encouraged to apply. AA/EOE.
Although a deadline has not yet been established, interested applicants are encouraged to apply as early as possible.
Contact:
Email
Savannah College of Art and Design
Attn: HR - Faculty
P.O. Box 3146
Savannah, GA 31402-3146
Submission Details
ALSO
Georgia Southern University, invites nominations and applications for the tenure track position of Assistant Professor of Fashion Merchandising in the Department of Hospitality, Tourism, and Family & Consumer Sciences, College of Health and Human Sciences.
Position Description:
Reporting to the Chair of the Department, the Assistant Professor of Fashion Merchandising will teach undergraduate courses in fashion merchandising, including, but not limited to fashion fundamentals, visual merchandising, fashion presentation and promotion, and principles of merchandising. The successful candidate will also engage in scholarship and creative activities, disseminating results in refereed/juried venues, advise and mentor undergraduate majors, take an active role in appropriate professional organizations, and provide service to the institution and the profession. This is a nine-month tenure-track position with possibilities for summer teaching. Salary is competitive and commensurate with qualifications and experience.
Required Qualifications:
* A terminal degree (doctorate or MFA) in Fashion Merchandising or related field by August 1, 2009
* Commitment to teaching and learning as evidenced by prior teaching experience and seminar/presentation during campus visit with students present
* Promise of productive scholarship/creative activities consistent with the teacher-scholar model, including grant/proposal writing
* Ability to contribute to a positive work environment in the Department, College, and University
* Technological literacy and a commitment to integrate technology into teaching and scholarship
* Commitment to professional service within the University and beyond
Preferred Qualifications:
* Interest in working in a diverse academic and professional community
* Retail work experience
* Minimum of one year of college/university teaching experience
Screening of applications begins October 20, 2008, and will continue until the position is filled. The position starting date is August 1, 2009. A complete application consists of a letter addressing the qualifications cited above; a curriculum vitae; and the names, addresses, telephone numbers, and email addresses of at least five professional references. Other documentation may be requested. Georgia Southern University seeks to recruit individuals who are committed to working in diverse academic and professional communities.
Contact:
Click here for more information.
or
Dr. Diana Cone
Hospitality, Tourism, and Family & Consumer Sciences
Georgia Southern University
P. O. Box 8073
Statesboro, GA 30460
912-478-1414
Comments
September 22nd, 2008 at 12:05 pm
(History of Dress, Uncategorized)

I don’t normally do any kind of street fashion posts, but I did go to the Treasure Island Music Festival this past weekend and found taking photos of the ‘hip kids’ rather addictive. For the play-by-play of the music as it happened, please visit my friend (of a friend)’s blog at The Bay Bridged. Personally my favorite band was Vampire Weekend.

The high school set was fond of imitating the ‘headband wearing girl’ on Gossip Girl (news to me) mixed with nerd chic (see the glasses in the above shot). All ages and genders were wearing scarves, leggings, colorful tights, tight purple pants and black and white patterns (on shoes, bags, shirts, etc - but that could be related to the pirate theme of the festival). 1970s era tan leather also seemed to be a hit with Hipster 1.0 (aka 30+ set) in the form of dresses, jackets, pants and boots.

Screen printing by San Franphsycho
The festival itself was incredibly DIY, complete with booths of hand-screen printed scarves and T-shirts (there were several that would print the item while you waited: see San Franpsycho). An art gallery, a indy zine lounge, graffiti wall (live), mobile salon, a face painter and a variety of other interesting vendors abounded. Vividot, had cute fabric covered button accessories and a huge number of screen printers presented the ever-popular graphic T-shirt, now almost an icon in San Francisco fashion, (see Deadbeatsister, Willotoons). A smattering of these folks have work at Etsy, including Kate Durkin.

From artist Mary Corey March
Artist Mary Corey March had one of the most interesting pieces in the art gallery, utilizing hand-dyed yarn to connect people to statements they felt described them to create a very large piece of art (see her website for the entire piece. Flyer’s abounded, and I picked up one for the next Gen Art Fresh Faces fashion show in San Francisco. The free bio-diesel bus that transported festival-goers from San Francisco to the Island was a real treat, affording great views of San Francisco’s major landmarks (Koit Tower and Treasure Island).
For the complete photo set, please visit my flicker. Here is a brief sampling:
Some black and white print:



Early 1990s :

Typical San Francisco (ah la 1970s):

Just plain hip:

Hypermodern (think Tron):

DIY details (perhaps an advertisement):

DIY Pirates (an apparent mixture of Victorian steampunk and theatrical costume paired with 1940s shoes):

What’s happening in high schools (headbands, early 1990s pastel, big sunglasses and skinny jeans):

Would love your comments, please leave them below.
Until next time,
Heather
www.fashionhistorian.net
2 Comments
September 21st, 2008 at 5:00 am
(Conferences and Calls for Papers, Uncategorized)
Digitizing Early Material Culture
October 16-18, 2008
University of Saskatchewan, Saskatoon
The call for papers has already passed but this might be interesting for even non-computer literate museum professionals in apparel and textiles to attend to learn about how to get collections preseved via digitizing as well as how to make them more available for the public.
Click here for more details.
Fashion and Well Being
April 2-3, 2009
11th Annual conference for the International Foundation of Fashion Technology Institutes hosted by the London College of Fashion, University of the Arts, London
Sept. 29, 2009-deadline for submission of abstracts. Papers are invited that address the themes outlined below:
- The overall theme of fashion and well-being aims to capture the breadth of research in various disciplines of fashion and related practices.
- The theme enables a diversity of research that would speak to the positive as well as potentially critical debates and connections between fashion and well-being: health related issues; manufacturing of clothing; technology and sustainability; historical and cultural studies; business and fashion, design catalysts, considerate design and education.
- The Conference aims to address a series of diverse but related themes that reflect current research directions and strengths of IFFTI members and the broader research community.
Click here for more details.
Comments
September 19th, 2008 at 3:19 pm
(Uncategorized)

Generally I post varied dress related new items on Fridays, but really the biggest news for me right now is that I found out I passed my preliminary written comprehensive exams! Now I can move on to pulling together my dissertation. Whew!
Click here to see my original post on my writtens.
-Monica
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