By Heather Vaughan,
July 24th, 2008 at 5:00 am
(Uncategorized)
I recently became aware of Fashionation, a website that tracks fashion editorials and photo spreads in both obscure and major magazines. Most recently, the site posted photos (with brief commentary) from W magazine’s amazing shoot “Kiss the Sky” with Gisele (above). Gorgeous.
Several of the shoots from this month’s W are bringing back the ‘goddess’ aesthetic, in response to the upcoming olympics in China – but showing a hard athletic version, rather than soft flowing draped imagery conjured by Harold Koda in the Goddess exhibit of 2003. Both “Kiss the Sky” and “Champion” (featuring Kristy Turlington) play on the two sides of this aesthetic in two separate shoots.
But even more interesting from a visual culture and museum curators perspective is the spread from Stiletto Magazine (France), titled “Songe De Robes.” The shoot is exclusively clothes dressed on invisible bodies, with no apparent location, no accessories, and most importantly, no people. The lighting is immaculate and focuses the viewer on the construction of each piece.
(Maurizio Galante Couture from Stiletto Magazine)
Couture pieces from Chanel, Givenchy, Armani and Lacroix (among others) float in an empty void, with no distractions – such as one might see in a gallery of art. Presenting these pieces in this way really draws attention to the folds of the fabric and the drape of the cloth (something Ann Hollander discusses in detail in the classic*). Gorgeous, ethereal, and intellectually stimulating. Interestingly enough, Stiletto also has its own blog (in French).
On a side note – I watched the first new episode of Project Runway, season 5 the other day and couldn’t help feeling like Tim Gunn was helping those designers just a little too much. I know its the first episode, so the weeding hasn’t been done yet, but having to tell a designer that they need to add “A Wow Factor” is so disappointing. The real ‘Wow Factor’ here is the lack of impressive designers, especially when comparing them to the artistic work presented by W and Stiletto.
Until Next Time,
Heather
www.fashionhistorian.net
*Full Disclosure: Anne Hollander’s Seeing Through Clothes is sold by my employer, UC Press.
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By Heather Vaughan,
July 23rd, 2008 at 5:00 am
(Exhibitions, History of Dress, Uncategorized)
According to JC Report’s Retail Watch, Liberty is opening their “first stand-alone store in London’s Sloane street” with a new modern edge. Liberty was established in 1875, and became the epitome of Belle Epoch style. It is also well remembered for its part in the Arts & Crafts, Art Nouveau, Aesthetics, and Japonism movements in both fashion and the decorative arts.
Liberty & Co Dec. Arts from the Victoria & Albert Museum Collection
While the company does have a vast archive, some of which was used for inspiration in the design of the new store, many museums in the US and UK have solid holdings of Liberty’s designs. Here are just a few of my personal favorites from across a variety of collections:
From the Met’s Costume Institute (More info here)
Liberty & Co. Raw silk (pongee) smocked and embroidered with silk, circa 1903 (Los Angeles County Museum of Art)
Aesthetic’s Robe, 1885-1900, Liberty & Co (Victoria & Albert Museum)
Liberty Dress, 1885 (Victoria & Albert Museum)
Liberty Dress, 1894 (Victoria & Albert Museum)
Liberty Dress, 1905 (Victoria & Albert Museum)
Liberty Dress of pongee silk with smocking and machine-made lace, 1905 (Victoria & Albert Museum).
More information on all of these objects are available by searching for “Liberty & Co.” at the Victoria and Albert Museum Collection, Los Angeles County Museum of Art, and The Metropolitan Museum of Art.
The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising in Los Angeles also recently held two coinciding exhibits on Artistic Dress and Aesthetic Dress, featuring many garments from this era. I simply can not get over the beauty of this time period and this aesthetic – it evokes both femininity and hand-craft skills. Which of those above is your favorite and why?
Until Next Time,
Heather
www.fashionhistorian.net
1 Comment
By Monica Sklar,
July 22nd, 2008 at 5:00 am
(Jobs, Uncategorized)
There’s a new listing for a Lecturer position in Textiles, Apparel and Retailing at the University of Texas at Austin. Great location to live, but the listing is for the ’08-’09 year so that’s coming up asap! Below are the details as pulled from ITAA‘s site:
The School of Human Ecology, Division of Textiles and Apparel invites applications for a Lecturer position for the 2008-09 academic year. The division offers programs leading to the B.S. in Textiles and Apparel and the M.S. in Textiles and Apparel Technology. The Division has approximately 300 undergraduate majors and began admitting students to the graduate program in 2007-2008.
Applicants: Must hold a M. A., M. S., or Ph. D. in Textiles and Apparel or Retail Merchandising from an accredited institution of higher education, and have experience teaching textiles and apparel or working in the retail industry. Candidates should provide evidence of teaching excellence and their ability to teach in a multicultural, multiethnic research university.
Responsibilities: Includes teaching undergraduate courses in the following content areas: retailing, analysis of apparel products, and introductory textile science (lecture and laboratory courses). Course assignments may vary depending on needs. Additional duties include providing service in teaching, curriculum development, outreach and advising student organizations.
Applicant Instructions: Review of applications will begin immediately and continue until the position is filled. Candidates should provide curriculum vitae, statement of research and teaching interests, and three letters of reference which address teaching qualifications.
Send application materials to:
Dr. Catherine Surra
Chair – Search Committee
The University of Texas at Austin
Division of Textiles and Apparel
1 University Station A2700
Austin, TX 78712-0141
1 Comment
By Monica Sklar,
July 22nd, 2008 at 5:00 am
(Jobs, Uncategorized)
VisArts at Rockville in Maryland has a few job openings that are art and visual culture oriented, but may appeal to dress and textile folks. The facility says this about itself: “VisArts at Rockville has earned a reputation for excellence and innovation as a venue and in its education programs committed to contemporary visual art and design.”
1.) Education Coordinator to Education Department
Position:
The Metropolitan Center for the Visual Arts (VisArts at Rockville) is seeking an Education Coordinator for the Visual Arts Education Department. The education Coordinator reports to the Executive and Associate Directs of VisArts. The candidate will oversee all classes, workshops and education events, as well as assist teachers and students on a daily basis. Daily education department management includes ensuring consistent high-quality customer service and providing support to the Associate Director of VisArts. Some evening and weekend work required.
For best consideration, send a cover letter and resume, or curriculum vitae and three names of references by August 15, 2008 to:
Executive Director
VisArts at Rockville
155 Gibbs Street
Rockville, MD 20850
Or email
2.) Exhibitions Education and Public Programs Manager-Part-time or full time considered.
Duties:
Create, plan, and facilitate all VisArts exhibition-related educational and public programs in association with the Gallery Director and Assistant Director. Current programs include Artist Lecture Series, Art Talks, Art Stops, Hear Arts and Family Days at VisArts. Develop all educational materials for exhibitions, including the Children’s Discovery Gallery, materials and any other non-curatorial tour materials such as the VisArts cell phone audio tour and Teacher’s Guide. Create custom audio cell phone guides for each exhibition. Encourage and assist artists to record a personal message about their work. Devise innovative ways to encourage use of this educational resource. Create and send email blasts to over 1,500 contacts, advertising all gallery and education events working with the Marketing Manager and Education Department. Prepare all education related text for publications. Build and maintain relationships with regional educational community; promote exhibitions as educational resources and schedule and lead all school tours. Create mission-related content for workshops; manage teachers and oversee workshops, while assisting teachers as needed. Expand reputation of excellence through innovative and original educational programs.
For best consideration, send a cover letter and resume, or curriculum vitae and three names of references by August 15, 2008 to:
Director of Exhibitions and Programming
VisArts at Rockville
155 Gibbs Street
Rockville, MD 20850
3.) Assistant Exhibitions Director-Part-time or full time acceptable
Duties: Assist the Director of Exhibitions with management and curatorial aspects of gallery, including exhibitions and public programs, i.e. lectures, symposia, artists residencies, internships, off-site exhibitions, and fundraising events. Work with the Education and Public Programs Manager overseeing the planning and implementation of the related public events and education, outreach and artist residency programs. Work with the Exhibitions Director also working with Education and Outreach Directors to prepare material for publication including, but not limited to, press releases, calendars, invitations, wall text, brochures, catalogues, and posters.
For best consideration, send a cover letter and resume, or curriculum vitae and three names of references by August 15, 2008 to:
Director of Exhibitions and Programming
VisArts at Rockville
155 Gibbs Street
Rockville, MD 20850
Or email
1 Comment
By Monica Sklar,
July 21st, 2008 at 5:00 am
(Conferences and Calls for Papers, Uncategorized)
There will be a conference in the UK entitled:
Visuality/Materiality: Revieweing Theory, Method, and Practice. It’s July 15-17, 2009 and the due date for submissions is (I think) December 1, 2008. Check out either of these websites for details. The h-net annoucement page or the homepage of the conference.
This is what the conference organizers are saying about the content:
“Visuality/Materiality attends to the relationship to the visual and material as a way of approaching both the meaning of visual and its other aspects. This conference aims to provide a dialogic space where the nature and role of a visual theory can be evaluated in light of materiality, practice, affect, performativity; and where the methodological encounter informs our intellectual critique.”
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By Monica Sklar,
July 18th, 2008 at 5:25 am
(Uncategorized)
Do you want textbooks I’ve used for teaching?
If so, Email me.
I’ve been doing some cleaning out of my basement and have two fashion and design textbooks that I don’t need anymore. I go through waves of actively doing eBay, but I think these two might be better served if I just offer them up via Worn Through to prosepective takers in the continental U.S. If you want to email me and work out a paypal payment for the cost of shipping, I’ll send them your way. Based on USPS pricing, and their weight, it looks like I can send them media mail for about $3.28, so plus the envelope, packaging, etc. let’s call it $5 even. But, in order to keep this cheap, I won’t send out of the U.S. unless you want to pay the additional shipping. I’m not looking to profit on these, just get them out of the already cluttered basement, and I’d hate to toss them since they’re good materials.-Monica
They are listed below:
Silent Selling: Best Practices and Effective Strategies in Visual Merchandising (2nd Ed.) by Judith Bell and Kate Ternus. Hardcover, spiral bound. They have since come out with another edition but there were very few changes so this one is still good. Fabulous book I’ve used not just for class.
The Business of Fashion: Designing, Manufacturing, and Marketing (2nd Ed.) by Leslie Davis Burns and Nancy O. Bryant. Hardcover.
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By Monica Sklar,
July 17th, 2008 at 5:00 am
(Exhibitions)
BEYOND THE PATTERN: THE QUINTESSENCE OF FASHION-Through August 2 at the Lacis Museum [Berkeley, CA], this exhibit looks at costume from 1700 – 1870, celebrating the applied handwork, fabric manipulation, embroidery, and lace that raises costume from mere body covering to fashion. Delicately hand embroidered cuffs, carefully lace-edged baby shirts, and lovingly quilted house coats were an opportunity to cultivate refinement and sensibility. Click here for details.
FASHION A LA MODE-Through July 31 at the Strathcona County Museum and Archives [Sherwood Park, Alberta, Canada], this exhibit focuses on wedding dresses from 1800s – 1950s and includes undergarments from the past, such as camisoles and nightgowns, as well as one flapper dress. Click here for details.
CELEBRATING 75 YEARS OF FASHIONS-Through August 30 at the Watkins Community Museum of History [Lawrence, KS], this exhibit displays examples of the seven decades of fashion since the Douglas County Historical Society was organized: the 30s satin ball gowns, the ’40s military look, ’50s rock ‘n’ roll, the ’60s mini skirts, the ’70s granny dresses, and the melange of preceding decades’ fashions since the ’80s. Click here for details.
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By Heather Vaughan,
July 16th, 2008 at 5:00 am
(Exhibitions, History of Dress, Uncategorized)
Profiles in History, an auction house in Southern California is having their annual memorabilia sale Thursday and Friday August 31 and July 1, 2008 at 11:00 a.m.
Following in the wake of the Superheros exhibit at the Metropolitan Museum of Arts, Costume Institute, not to mention all the bru-ha-ha about summer super-hero/action movies right now, the auction house is focusing on that topic as well. If you happen to be in the area and have $60-80,000 handy, you too could own:
A little searching on their site also reveals a large number of costume sketches for some fairly iconic movies, actress and characters over the last 100 years of film-making, including these:
Walter Plunkett costume sketch for Katharine Hepburn from Christopher Strong (1933). (The sketch was likely done well after the movie was filmed)
Grace Kelly costume design sketch from High Society (1956).
Anthea Sylbert costume sketch for Faye Dunaway in Chinatown (1974).
If anyone is working on any film costume history projects I would encourage you to search this vast online catalog. It does also include non-superhero movie costumes, including this one from High Society (1956).
Until Next Time,
Heather
www.fashionhistorian.net
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By Monica Sklar,
July 15th, 2008 at 8:03 pm
(Conferences and Calls for Papers)
There’s a new call for papers for an anthology on feminism and fashion entitled Feminism, Fashion, and Flair: Confronting Hegemony with Style. The due date is August 15, 2008 and they say the “book explores the productive tensions generated by fashion and style. We are interested in essays that take up questions of gender with special attention to race, class, sexuality, age, and ethnicity. This collection blends theory and pop culture analysis in exciting ways, focusing on contemporary trends and controversies.”
Click here for full details.
Or email here.
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By Monica Sklar,
July 15th, 2008 at 5:58 am
(Jobs, Uncategorized)
The Future Laboratory, a London firm, is looking for a Visual Trends Analyst to work with clients on planning and strategy with trend forecasting. Click here for details.
Middlesex University, North London Campus (England) is looking for two lecturers in History of Art, Design, and Visual Culture. Ph.D. or close to it required. July 22 is the closing date. Click here for details.
The Center for Art, Design, and Visual Culture in Baltimore, MD has a few open positions. There is a research and office assistant position and also a museum internship available. Click here for more details on those.
University of California-Santa Cruz is looking for a History of Art and Visual Culture Department Manager which is an administrative support position under the chair of the dept. Click here for details.
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