Conference: Material & Visual Cultures of Dress in European Courts (1300-1815). The due date for submissions is 6-15-2008 and the dates of conference are June 4-6, 2009. It’s an international symposium devoted to the material and visual cultures of dress in the European courts (1300-1815) will be held in Versailles. Click here to for more information
Now that economists are agreeing that we are indeed entering a recession, fashion historians should watch for new innovations to alleviate some of the increasing financial burdens (especially those caused by the housing market, decreasing food supplies, and increasing gas prices). A recent Time article pointed out that a somber mood in fashion will hit come Fall, focusing on a “dark palette and severe silhouette.” While historically, people in the U.S. have dealt with the hard facts and limitations of recessions and war-time economies, never before has the U.S. had to deal with both at the same time.
During the Great Depression as well as during World War II, shortages and limitations caused a number of developments in the fashion world in terms of materials used, production methods and trends. For example, during World War II the ‘Made Do and Mend’ policy was instituted, which one might consider the pre-cursor to the DIY movement we find ourselves in now. Additionally, rubber shortages during WWII led shoemakers to turn to other materials to make their soles (most notably wood and cork).
Perhaps though, people will turn to fashion (or other forms of ‘entertainment’) to escape their everyday doldrums, as was done with film during the Great Depression. Alexander McQueen agreed in a recent article for the Independent, saying “in times of recession, I think fashion is escapism.” Designer Narcisso Rodriquez, disagrees, noting in Time Magazine that “When times get tough, people want things that are real and lasting.”
The real question is, what will we see today’s designers producing to help their customers deal with increasing costs? The recession and war combined with the new Eco-Chic are sure to bring some interesting innovations. We have already seen the rise in popularity of the reusable canvas bag, and eco-chic fashion shows are popping up at design schools all over the U.S. Personally, I hope the innovations combine the needs of the current economy, the need for escapism, and eco-chic. Perhaps recycled DIY, belle-epoch era bicycle skirts will be the innovation of the decade. Keep an eye out for new materials being used in new ways and let me know what you see.
-Heather
Below is a list of some current exhibits to check out around
the country which I gathered from the Costume Society of America.
PRICKED: EXTREME EMBROIDERY Through April 27 at the Museum of Art and Design [New York City]; This exhibit will explore how centuries-old handcraft traditions are rejuvenated in the mainstream of contemporary art and design, with works from an international mix of men and women. For details visit: http://www.madmuseum.org/
THE FABRIC OF CULTURES: FASHION, IDENTITY, GLOBALIZATION Through April 27 at the Museum of Craft and Folk Art [San Francisco, CA]; This exhibit of 30+ global garments and textiles illuminates the interplay between cultural and personal identity and the global influence of culture and ethnicity on fashion. Examples range from ancient Peruvian textiles to contemporary Mexican fashions. For details visit: http://www.mocfa.org/exhibitions/index.htm
HALSTON: A FAMILY REMEMBRANCE OF AN EVANSVILLE ORIGINAL Through May 4 at the Evansville Museum [Evansville, IN]; This exhibit will feature examples of daywear and eveningwear designed by Halston, including gowns worn for two family weddings. For details visit: http://www.emuseum.org/art/art.html
EXOTICISM Through May 7, at FIT [New York City]; This exhibit will display 18th and 19th-century fashions and textiles, highlighting the influence of Japanese, Chinese, Indian, and North African styles. It surveys 250 years of exoticism in fashion, from the age of colonialism to the rise of multiculturalism and globalization. For details visit: http://www.fitnyc.edu/aspx/Content.aspx?menu=FutureGlobal:Museum
ATTIRE FROM THE 1820s TO THE EARLY 1900s Through May 11 at The Centre Hill Museum [Petersburg, VA]; This exhibit will display men’s, women’s and children’s clothing and fashion accessories in the mansion’s period room settings. For details visit: http://www.petersburg-va.org/tourism/cntrhill.htm EVOLUTION /
REVOLUTION: ARTS AND CRAFTS IN CONTEMPORARY FASHION AND TEXTILES Through June 15 at the RISD Museum [Providence, RI]; This exhibit will explore ways in which fashion and textiles are a reflection of changing attitudes about design and consumption. For details visit: http://www.risd.edu/museum_exhibitions.cfm?type=museum&onview=museum_onview_111.cfm
Voltage Fashion Amplified was this week, which is a phenomenal affair showcasing the lines of many local designers as well as bands dressed by stylists. The production value is extremely high, with video screens presenting bios, DJs filling the air between sets, regular e-mail fanouts with updates leading up to the event, and a variety of other activities during the surrounding week to support the big night and the Twin Cities fashion crowd. Applause to all involved. You can really tell how hard everyone works. My only two somewhat negative comments are first, that it seems like the venue over-sells each year, that or its just a tight squeeze which makes viewing the details of the show nearly impossible. Although I have found this to be true of other events I’ve been to at the venue so it might not reflect on Voltage. Second, this year’s content was inferior to last year. That’s no reflection on the quality of the show’s production, and really the content was OK and certainly entertaining, but the designs were leaning toward costume-like historical (as compared to just being inspired by history) or, toward ready-to-wear so ready that they were a tad drab on a runway, when you expect a little pizzaz. Similarly, the bands were either way over-the-top or sort of boring. Last year was a wow-fest all the way through. Nonetheless, Voltage is a fabulous event that really is spot-on capturing the interest of fashion and music fans and garnering attention for the hard working artists and event producers involved. Having been involved in many shows of this nature on various scales over the years, I can say GOOD JOB! A few pictures are below. Looks like both me individually, and the musuem I wor at might get involved next year in some way. 
On my desktop I use those fake post-its, to remind me of thoughts and things I want to eventually take care of. Well for months I’ve had a small running list on one of these post-its, staring at me every day, regarding books I’d like to write after I finish my first one (which is currently in its beginning stages). A wish list I realize, but staring at the my various notes of this nature on a daily basis helps keep me on track and moving forward.
So I wrote myself a note to look into writing a book on fashion eccentrics, and if you’re a reader of this blog, or you know me personally, you know that’s a particularily fav. subject of mine. Isabella Blow, Leigh Bowery, Dean Johnson, Peter Berlin, Jordan and Catwoman (70s punk), and the like. Drag queens, club kids, fashion journalists, Warhol icons, punk rebels, European heiress coutoure experts, etc. etc. People who dress(ed) to the hilt and sometimes past, and feel fabulous about it. I’ve always admired someone who can truly live and dress that way. I’ve taken tremendous influence into my daily life from anyone like that I can find-iconic, local, and anonymous alike. Granted my look has never been quite as extreme, but for sure I’ve incorporated elements of this inspiration into my visual pressence, and soaked a lot more up into my brain.
So, this leads me to an quiet Saturday night, last night, strolling a Barnes and Noble. On the table of hardcover new releases was a bright green and pink eye-catching number that I saw was by Simon Doonan, who wrote Confessions of a Window Dresser: Tales from the Life of Fashion
Flipping through I became increasingly disappointed as it looked funny, articulate, and most of all, right on topic! Although, there are a few significant differences between his and how I planned to write on the subject: He selected some different people than I would have to profile (and some the same) and some of his peeps I have to question as there are way more fabulous divas out there. Also, I would have positioning it more in the middle of academic and popular, trying to get to the root of why people push boundaries, and what they mean within society, versus his is popular audience style. In fact, there’s a bit of an in-the-know factor to his book, which almost makes it for a New York/LA popular audience, but fashion mavens and interested parties from anywhere can at easily get into it I assume–as I plan to from right here in the middle of the country.
Finally, his book is a bit of the self-help/inspirational type, which is where his Wacky Chicks: Life Lessons from Fearlessly Inappropriate and Fabulously Eccentric Women
Regardless, I plan on picking up the Eccentric Glamour asap and perhaps even making it my book club selection-especially with the charity connection. I’ve really got to get pen to paper faster as the best ideas can slip away if you’re not quick. I’ve got a few journal articles in progress, my dissertation is moving full steam ahead this summer, and a probably a book next year. It always seems like there’s more good ideas than time!
Spring weather has really hit Northern California, and shopping is on my mind. Oddly enough, that made me think about new books for Spring. The following are four fashion titles due out this month.
1. Paris 1962: Yves Saint Laurent and Dior, Christian Dior, The Early Collections 
I suspect that this one, written by a filmmaker/photographer and an art/culture writer, Paris 1962 will be primarily a book of photography by Schatzberg’s coverage of fashion in 1962, with commentary by Morton. The jacket copy suggests intrigue, scandal and chic-ness in the extreme. I would be interested to see how this compares to The Beautiful Fall (a biography of the rivalry between YSL and Lagerfeld and of Paris nightlife – written by a journalist). Watch for this one to pop up in reviews alongside the YSL exhibit that’s coming to the de Young Museum in San Francisco in November.
2. Natural Fashion: Tribal Decoration from Africa
The cover on this just blew me away (pictured above). Natural Fashion documents the nomadic peoples of Ethiopia’s Omo Valley and their styles of ornamentation. Given that there are 168 pages in the book, and 160 color photographs, I’m guessing that this is also primarily a photography book. Amazon appears to have it in stock now, and it does look like it might have some inspiring images. That said, one reviewer for Amazon was critical, saying “Are they decorating themselves out of some tribal tradition, or for the benefit of the photographer?.” A valid point, and so probably not for the serious academic studying ‘real’ styles of ethnic dress.
3. Eco-chic: The Fashion Paradox
Written by Sandy Black of the London College of Fashion, this promises to be a “comprehensive survey.” Why is it that the UK always delivers real academic studies of fashion, while US publishers give as only splash and glitter? Sigh… in any case, from the description it looks like this book might have too many UK references to be relevant in the US (aka Marks & Spencer), but of course I can’t say that for certain. Regardless, I suspect that UC Davis will include the book on their shelves when their exhibit Fashion Conscious: Designs that will change the world one garment at a time.
4. Adrian: Silver Screen to Custom Label
So maybe I saved the best for last – Adrian is one of my guilty little pleasures (tied of course to my academic research on Natacha Rambova). He’s a fashion and Hollywood personality, he’s trendy, and I’m curious to see what Christian Esquevin has to say about him (if anything). Esquevin is a sketch collector out of San Diego (and a librarian), so I have a hunch that this is primarily a book of photographs and illustrations (But who knows, there isn’t much in the description to tell me about it). Some of Esquevin’s illustrations were used in Dressed
I also want to thank Monica for inviting me to contribute to her blog. I hope to do more as time goes on.
Best,
Heather
Worn Through has provided me with a fabulous way to tell others about some of the dress news on my mind and discuss interesting concepts with readers. Yet, there never seems to be enough time to really devote all I want to. One of the best things about Worn Through for me has been some of the friendships and professional associations that have developed right here on these pages via the comments and personal emails that have stemmed from topics on the blog. This is how I got to know Heather Vaughan, who I was already aware of through her active work when she was the editor of the Costume Society of America’s E-News. Since Worn Through has proven to be a fun and worthwhile endeavor, yet more time consuming than I can handle, Heather graciously accepted my invitation to be a regular contributor and to provide her insight into the world of fashion and dress scholarship. Heather is currently an independent scholar of fashion and dress out of California. She’s a 20th century buff but has been trained in the range of fashion and textile history through her schooling and work experiences. She’s got some other web activities going including running a listserv for Alumni of the NYU Visual Culture: Costumes program. I look forward to see what Heather posts and thanx to her for agreeing to be part of the Worn Through team!
My coworker turned me on to a fun site for a company called Death to Argyle which sells golf clothes for the non-country club set. In fact, more of the punk bar or hot rod show set. It’s a fun site and a cool collection of options which the designers say meet golf standards, such as the length of one’s shorts, but add a retro and punky flair. Fun stuff! The museum I work at is doing a sportswear exhibit this fall regarding how clothing for sports has moved into daily wear. I like the reverse idea too, that one’s daily style shouldn’t have to completely change for your sport of interest.
Below you’ll find a CALL FOR PAPERS I am copying for you directly from an email I received. The editor is Marilyn DeLong who is my current academic advisor, professor, and research collaborator on the project on black leather jackets which we just took to PCA/ACA and will take to Costume Society in May and hopefully ITAA in November.
Fashion Practice: The Journal of Design, Creative Process and the Fashion Industry
Edited by Sandy Black, Professor of Fashion Design & Technology, London College of Fashion, University of the Arts, UK and Marilyn DeLong, Professor and Associate Dean for Research & Outreach, College of Design, University of Minnesota, US
This is the first peer-reviewed academic journal to cover the full range of contemporary design and manufacture within the context of the fashion industry. Design processes and new technologies fuel the most vibrant areas of fashion practice and commerce today, yet they have been largely ignored by scholarship. Fashion Practice fills this major gap by providing a much-needed forum for topics ranging from design theory to the impact of technology, economics and industry on fashion practice. The journal also covers the cultural ramifications of these issues upon the larger fashion sphere. Interdisciplinary in approach, Fashion Practice will address, broadly, the business of fashion, including some or all of the following topics:
- innovation in fashion design and practice
- sustainability and ethics within the industry
- micro- and nano-technologies within the fashion context
- ‘smart’ textiles and digital fashion
- materials, design, concepts and process
- fashion consumption and production from retail/e-tail to performance fashion
- new developments in fashion and clothing retail
The journal encourages submissions from scholars and practitioners working specifically within fashion / apparel, design and business departments, as well as those working on the creative industries from a broad range of social science perspectives.
Should you have a paper you would like to submit, please email both Sandy Black at s.black@fashion.arts.ac.uk and Marilyn DeLong at mdelong@umn.edu
Midwest Popular Culture/American Culture Association have two calls for papers that might work for some Worn Through readers: VISUAL CULTURE and FASHION are both looking for submissions. I went last year and while I was a tad disappointed at the low turn out per room, in all reality the conference had a fairly high turn-out, it was just perhaps over-divided and therefore highly splintered. But, it’s a good presentation opportunity and the meals etc are good times to mingle with people in the field. Also, even though it’s midwest, I met people from all over the country.
The 2008 conference of the Midwest Popular Culture/American Culture American Culture Association will be held in Cincinnati, Friday-Sunday, October 3-5, 2008. The call for papers I saw was confusing in that it gave two emails and two submission dates, so it’s either April 25 or April 30, 2008 and the contact is either Joy Sperling@denison.edu or sperling@denison.edu. I’d say just email her to find out details.
I won’t be there this year as I plan to attend ITAA in Shaumburg (outside Chicago) only a month later.
