Full Cleveland

00023047_the-hives376.jpg We went to see The Hives last night, which as per usual was tremendous. They are spectacular showmen, and Howlin’ Pelle’s stage banter is not to be beat, particular when he discusses how fabulous they look. I must say, they do look impeccable, but I’ll let you know that ten years ago I styled the Detroit band The Porters, who I also managed and did PR for, in what was called the Full Cleveland, which is white belt and shoes. We felt the whites paired with black pants really made the outfit, and it became the signature look for the large soul band. A few bands followed also sporting whites, but it didn’t work as well in emo or pure rock. Not until the Hives have I seen the look so perfected and looking appropriate with the music. I guess I’d say I have to give myself a little pat on the back for being ahead, but really it was a retro look even then which we found in my various costume history books.  Props to the Hives for keeping it alive and for putting on one of the most high energy shows I’ve been to in a while. (Side note on rock show etiquette-If the show is over-sold and there isn’t an inch to move, you must drink and use the bathroom ahead of the band playing. I cannot tell you how many people tried to shuffle about mid-show and were absolute annoyances to the rest of us-c’mon people-have some sense about your surroundings or you’re going to get an elbow).    The top photo is of The Hives circa 2007-8 and the bottom two are of The Porters circa 1998-9  porters-2_0004small.jpg porters-2_0003small.jpg 

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Book club book

I’ve joined a book club of about 15 very cool women in the Twin Cities area. We’ve met three times and it really is fun. I’ve never been in a book club before, and I have no time to read anything but schoolwork, but I really needed to meet some new people and it’s a good group to mingle with. So my book month isn’t for a few yet, but I’d like to pre-read if possible to test out a few. Can anyone suggest anything that is about the design world, the fashion, world, etc. maybe a biography or a period piece, or fiction, doesn’t matter as long as it’s thoughtful. Granted I’m an enormous Devil Wears Prada fan but the club is somewhat more literary than that. And anyway, who hasn’t read that book or seen the movie. I did hear about a Christian Dior/Yves St. Laurent bio that is supposed to be fairly new and saucy. Anyway, I’m open to suggestions. Oh and by the way-ideally it would come on audio as it’s one of the only ways I’ve found time to read anything extracurricular-unless it’s short or an easy skim.

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Jobs!

There are a couple new jobs posted recently. As always, you can also check ITAA and CSA as they have tons of academic positions listed. Here are couple fresh ones. Fashion Institute of Technology-New York-Department of Fashion and Textile Studies (graduate) and Department of Textile/Surface Design (undergraduate) – Shared Position: Successful candidates are expected to actively participate in departmental and college-wide committee work; curriculum development; academic support services, such as portfolio review and general advisement; student recruitment and admissions; and professional organizations. Must have excellent communication and organizational skills; a commitment to quality education and student-centeredness; and the ability to work with a diverse student population and be part of a collaborative team. Must demonstrate leadership skills. Qualifications: Ph.D. preferred with at least three years of successful graduate and undergraduate teaching experience. Responsibilities include teaching Western costume and textile history, with an emphasis on modern textile designers in the undergraduate major of Fabric Styling and the graduate Department of Fashion and Textile Studies. Experience with museum exhibitions a plus; significant department/college-wide service required. Submit electronic applications to resumes12@fitnyc.edu Cotsen Corporation-Los Angeles- Collections Manager/Assistant Curator/Registrar for private collection in Los Angeles consisting of over 7,000 textiles, ethnographic and other objects. Job duties include full maintenance of all catalog data bases; inventory regulation for various locations; supervision of staff; loan and exhibition coordination; registration and digital photography; maintenance of facilities including HVAC systems and inventory regulations; interaction with collector, museums and art dealers. Applicant must be a self-starter, with a minimum of five years experience, ability to work well with others and communicate in effective and timely manner. Address: 12100 Wilshire Blvd., Ste. 905 Los Angeles, CA 90025

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Exhibits! Exhibits!

Costume Society of America sent its eNews and as per usual it was filled with lots of great exhibits. I’ll share a few highlights with you in case you’re not a member or haven’t heard about some of these events. WOVEN TRADITIONS: CENTRAL AND WEST AFRICAN TEXTILES-Through February 22 at Drake University’s Anderson Gallery in Des Moines, IA, this exhibit will display 40 rare examples by the Ashante, Yoruba, Nupe, Bamana, Kuba and Pygmy peoples, including ceremonial flags, elaborate garments made from bark and a 20-foot skirt adorned with messages written in codes of bars and circles. The stories behind the artifacts are equally fascinating. GREGORY WEIR-QUITON: THE FIGURE, FASHION & FILM-Through February 22 at Woody’s Gallery in Woodbury University’s Fashion Design Department in Burbank, CA, this exhibit will explore the career and designs of Weir-Quiton, commercial fashion illustrator since the 1960s, and a film illustrator since 1990. GRAFFITI ART AND FASHION-Through February 24 at the Phoenix Art Museum, this exhibit explores graffiti from its origins as an illegal street activity to its acceptance among art galleries and museums, and how it has developed as an original visual language, exploring the art form’s origins and its evolution in fashion and graphics, with early jackets and clothing painted by original graffiti artists, artist collaborations, and high fashion interpretations of the style by designers. Over 20 rare examples of this colorful and original movement will be on view together for the first time. TEXTILE TOWNS-Through February 29 at the Arts Council Galleries in Concord, NC, this series of large works explores issues central to the region’s relationship with textiles. Scottish-born photographer Phil Moody combined images and texts to portray the history of textile workers in the South. Fiber works on display range from wall tapestries to scarves to jackets. THE CHARM OF ROCOCO: FEMININITY AND FOOTWEAR IN THE 18TH CENTURY-Through February 29 at The Bata Shoe Museum in Toronto, this exhibit features some of the Museum’s most magnificent and lavish footwear, transporting visitors into a world of Louis XV opulence. Emanating from the French court, the Rococo aesthetic infused a sensuous charm and delicate grace into fashion in the 18th century. The connections between femininity and footwear established in the 18th century continue to inform the cultural meanings of women’s footwear today. THE SARTORIALIST-Through February 23 at Danziger Projects in New York City, this exhibit highlights Scott Schuman – better known as The Sartorialist – who has emerged as a leading photographer of the blogosphere. Since September 2005, on his blog The Sartorialist he has recorded how both men and women with great style look when they venture out on the street. Beginning as a self-taught photographer, Schuman has penetrating portraits of how fashion manifests itself in the real world as opposed to the runway.

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Converse all over the place

35070530.jpgI’m a relatively big fan of Converse and have appreciated their various styles over the years, most recently obsessing over my John Varvatos, many-eyelet black sneakers. We liked them so much Harlo also bought them in blue, as well as  a pair of great looking light-weight blue pin-striped pants, with rockin’ suspenders, also in the John Varvatos line. I also think the Ramones shoe and other homages to rock and athletic icons makes sense, and isn’t a stretch from Vavatos who links himself to that lineage and recently decided to open up shop in the old CBGB’s space. I have been enjoying Converse’s sort of up-branding of late with the ink to Varvatos, and cross branding with the rock and athletic shoes. But now i’m starting to get confused with the announcement of a line of sportswear and shoes for Target. I’m just starting to wonder if Converse is spreading itself all over the place, and losing site of a core customer base. or maybe they don’t know who their customer base is, and/or are trying to get just about everyone within that fold. However, they’ve never struck me as a for-everyone company.  As fashion and design forward as Target is, they bring a discount for-all type vibe, or at least a mass-market concept and while Converse were never expensive, they always did have a certain in-the-know cache. This is true even when worn through with holes by a skateboarder or glossy white on a vintage basketball players’ court.Generally I’m a big fan of democratizing design, and I’m a big Target shopper, often because of their design-friendly world. I’m not terribly into design elitism.  Trust me, here in Minneapolis you cannot get around Target’s shadow which is mostly good, although not ideal at all times. Regardless, that is another point. The point in this post I’m trying to address is whether a brand does itself a favor by multi-tasking and reaching far and wide for an audience,  or whether it ends up spreading its wings way too far.  Does this create a watered down effect which alienates its core or is it smart to link to the Gap with product Red and Target and the like who are mass market/budget market but somewhat fashion forward.Sure I realize this is similar with the many lines tons of brands have, but somehow it seems more consistent in some than others and always maintaining the same message but at differing price points. To me, Converse is starting to just seem all over the place. Although I’m sure some would argue a fashion forward discounter is more in line with Converse than an upscale designer, but, my gut is mixed on this one and is leaning toward disagreeing.

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Spray tan to well done

 200802081607.jpgSo this past week there’s been a bunch of blogs, including Boing Boing posting pics of some New Jersey guys with intense spray tans (to say the least). I surfed all around to try to find out if this is some sort of east coast take on the Japanese girls trend but I couldn’t find anything except sites making fun of the boys. Does anyone know more about this? Is this just a few guys with questionable taste or is this a fashion trend? I just did a research project on young men’s workplace dress and found out a lot about the post-metrosexual guy’s take on things. I have to wonder what’s up with this thread spreading around the web. Click here to see a link to a lot of pictures.

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Hey Fashionistas

I’ve got some news about a new show in the vein of Project Runway but for would-be fashion editors and journalists. If you’re interested in trying out/applying drop me a line and I’ll provide the info. I decided not to apply as journalism isn’t exactly my gig anymore, but it was tempting. Let me know if you’re interested in strutting your stuff in front of TV land. 

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Steroids and hip hop

 bligegapsmall.jpgIs anyone doing a research project on the steroids and hip hop scandal that is still erupting. It’s so interesting on so many levels, including the fact it wasn’t just men, but that Mary J Blige got hit with allegations. It’s not something I think I have time to work on right now, but I think someone should work on this while it’s still timely. I am taking a course on Visual and Material Culture of Pop Music, which it would fit into perfectly, so perhaps I can do something small, but I doubt it as with only two semesters left all energies are going into dissertation prep-which isn’t about hip hop. Let me know if this is something anyone wants to work on from a dress studies bend.

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Temp tattoos for prom and the oscars

24skin1901.jpgThere’s a trend the NY Times reported about on fashion types getting temporary tattoos on special nights out to match their strapless dresses and the like. Now I know I should be open minded about this, as my tattoos certainly don’t make me the sailor or circus lady they once would have, and they don’t represent some significant rite of passage for my ethnicity or community as with other tattoo origins (unless you consider the act itself of being 20 in NYC and getting a tattoo a rite of passage these days-which you might). Anyway, somehow this trend seems downright silly. Maybe I should look at it more like the whimsical make-up of 60s Swinging London or the brash make up of the Punk 70s, or even going back way further to the beauty spots of diamonds and hearts which signified how you felt about a suitor. But again, I just see it as sort of funny. 

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