August 30th, 2007 at 2:35 pm
(Uncategorized)
The NYTimes had a decent article on the growing criminalization of low slung pants, and how it reflects opinions of hip hop style in general (and of course the people who wear it). Pretty good article with some historical references. The effectiveness of this type of regulating of people’s appearance to achieve behavior goals is often masked in discussions of modesty or normality. There is always research supporting the validity of these mandates, but I am always a little leery of it. My dissertation research is heading in this general direction but we’ll discuss it more another time…
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August 29th, 2007 at 10:56 am
(Uncategorized)
Recently a blog listed a ranking of the ‘top ten most physically modified people.’ It’s got some fairly well known characters in there that make plenty of cable TV appearances, etc. There were also a few I hadn’t previously been aware of. While so many of these people’s choices are beyond the average person’s wildest imagination, they also are spectacular examples of the range of options, opinions, motivations, and beauty ideals that construct our appearances.
There is a decent amount of academic research, and a larger amount of well written popular texts on the subject, and thankfully the bulk of it is nonjudgmental or degrading, but instead, analytical and informed work on the motivations and outcomes of being so farm outside the norm. Often the key is defining that ‘norm’, be it regional, ethnic, economic, gender, time period, or otherwise.
But, it does surprise me how even in areas of research such as dress, there are still a decent number of people who are vastly critical of outsider behavior, and do research to try to support their angles. I was at a huge conference a few years ago at which a professor went on and on during her presentation about how horrible it was that many of her young female students had even the mildest tattoos. Seems to me that even if you’re not into it yourself, if you are a scholar of an area such as dress you’d at least attempt to be more objective or just analytical about things.
I’m coming from the other end of the spectrum, in that I adore, and participate in body modification, but yet in my attempts to be objective I do have (if not criticisms) then at least questions and analysis of those who are as heavily modified as those in this list. While I’d have similar debates about tons of L.A.-style plastic surgery, extreme body building, and the like, body modifications that originated in cultures outside of one’s own have a fascinating other layer to debate. This has to do with the power of these choices when they are not tied to their original rites of passage or similar cultural or religious motivations, but instead are based in aesthetic preferences or group identification of groups differing from those who created the look.
It’s so subjective to asses at what point it’s an homage or exploitation of imagery that is may not be fully understood by the new wearer. However, in this postmodern world of bricollage and appropriation, it is up for debate the value of that position. I do think the boundaries are fascinating though, in that people can perm or straighten their hair, dress in the role of another gender, or a host of other things that are seen as normal or only slightly out of bounds-but-the push toward body modifications in less common ways equates freakdom in the public eye. Maybe it’s all in the numbers. The more people doing it the less freaky I guess-although that’s a pretty elementary assessment. Hence, the proliferation of tattooing, piercing, hair dying in ‘unnatural’ colors and other body mods that have moved closer to the mainstream, and one does have to wonder in that all-too-cliche way, what people will do with their dress to be outside of the norm it in the future. In the meantime, enjoy the pictures as they are great images.
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August 27th, 2007 at 3:00 pm
(Uncategorized)
I ran across the Style Wars competition on the Arts Deadlines list and decided it was worth posting-even though I’m not positive of its whole deal. Basically, it seems to be a fashion competition judging creativity, edginess, innovation, and speed in developing rock/runway looks. Super-styling. Anyway, I don’t know much about the people putting it on, but, some of the judges are the real deal so take a look and perhaps go strut your stuff. Not coming to my city or I’d at the very least go see it in person, if not possibly participate.
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August 27th, 2007 at 2:20 pm
(Uncategorized)
Annually goths flood into Disneyland, dressed to impress, and embracing their inner child through lots of fantasy and more than a dash of irony. LA Weekly has a fabulous slideshow featuring some of this year’s attendees. It really seems like modern vintage, as compared to Victorian era styles, are dominating a lot of the styles-specifically women going for pin-up appeal. It also seems like the whole cyber punk influence has greatly descreased. Although, I’m sure it’s regional. Having never attended a themed Disney day, I always wonder what the nonthemed patrons are thinking seeing throngs of people dressed up so enthusiastically. Are they thinking they’re all new characters? Does the ticket seller at the gate somehow stumble through explaning the goth look or gay pride looks when these days come along and the average fam of 4 is bewildered? I find the whole thing sort of facinating.
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August 23rd, 2007 at 2:16 pm
(Conferences and Calls for Papers, Uncategorized)
The University of Minnesota Twin Cities French department is hosting a lecture by Professor Caroline Weber, author of “Queen Of Fashion: What Marie Antoinette Wore To The Revolution” on 09/21/2007 at 5pm. Word is that the New York Times and the Washington Post named it one of the best books of 2006, which of course may have to do with its spectacular (and probably not random) timing that it was published right in time with the quirky Anoinette movie that was ever so hyped.
Weber is an associate professor at Barnard College, Columbia University and has published a slew of academic papers and popular texts including works in The New York Times and Vogue. It’s free so it sounds like it might be a good option for that evening. If you’re not in the Twin Cities, the book sounds fun and worth checking out if you’re into overzealous teen fashionistas, which it seems like are all the rage now anyway. Times don’t really change much.
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August 21st, 2007 at 3:41 pm
(Uncategorized)
Gucci Poochie? Pucci Puppy ? I couldn’t decide which designer name had more punch and I don’t really know what to say about New York’s second annual Pet Fashion Week, except it seemed I had to mention it. As the proud parent to two purebred toy poodles, who have a stockpile of sweaters, organic gourmet treats, and over-priced toys, I can hardly mock this whole affair. Yet somehow I am still a bit astonished that the articles are putting the number at “almost $4 billion in toys, clothes, and dog-sitters.”
There’s got to be a fun-to-research project in there about marketing ploys, psychology, crazed consumerism, and a host of other concepts. I recently read a scholarly paper about motherhood, which indicated that moms judge themselves and each other’s worth on the quality of their children’s dress and overall appearance, forgoing their own purchases to get their children the latest and greatest. So why not our dogs. It only makes sense (to many-possibly, and sometimes embarrassingly, including myself.) There are limits of course, but for now let’s just ignore them and get a kick out of NY Pet Fashion Week.
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August 20th, 2007 at 2:21 pm
(Uncategorized)
Recently male car designers at GM cross dressed to gain more perspective on the 50% of the car buying market who are underserved when it comes to the details. Women have long noticed some of the subtle elements of design that simply don’t suit their needs. A team led by a female vehicle line designer is starting to change that, even if her methods have evoked some sarcasm and a few laughs. I too would probably laugh seeing most of my male car engineer friends (which is half my Michigan peeps) dressed with press on nails, holding handbangs, and wearing long skirts, but, I appreciate this introductory effort to understand the complexities of dress and gender when it comes to all aspects of life-including our daily commute. There are a bunch of articles and blogs on the subject but I’ll direct you to this one as an initial point of reference.
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August 16th, 2007 at 10:22 am
(Jobs, Uncategorized)
There have been so many job openings lately. I’m not sure what that says about the economy, the field of fashion research and history, or the jobs themselves, but, this time I’ve got info about a few jobs at my own school. At the Goldstein Museum of Design we’re looking for an Assistant Curator who will work with museum education, accessions, collections, and then some. We’re also looking for a Registrar/Material Library Coordinator who will handle loans, collection management issues, as well as build a materials library which is a cool new project.
We’re also looking for professors and instructors in apparel and retailing. Check out the details at the Design, Housing, and Apparel site of UMN.
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August 14th, 2007 at 4:24 pm
(Uncategorized)
I was so pleased to open my mailbox and see a giant, inch thick issue of Vanity Fair devoted to style. VF is my fav magazine, and I’m a regular reader of their lengthy interviews and exposes, which actually dedicate serious time to a subject rather than gloss over it. In addition to the style issue, they have a second mag called Fashion Rocks (or something like that), which is about fashion and music. Sure it’s a more than a little commercial, but, again, with strong photography and at least some thought put into their topics it’s better than your average fashion coverage.
To make it even better, I just realized there is a write up on Isabella Blow, who, in an earlier post, I discussed how much I adored and would love to do a documentary about one day. I was lucky enough last year to see the only U.S. showing of the exhibit When Philip Met Isabella, at Cranbrook in Michigan, documenting her relationship with Philip Treacy and featuring stunning photos and of course tons of the fabulous hats. It was beautiful and inspiring. The way she was such an individual, an icon, a muse, a devotee of the arts within fashion and a nurturer of new talent was downright rare.
Anyway, VF has an article about her life and tragic death, and although I haven’t gotten a chance to read it yet, I’d highly recommend picking up the whole issue as undoubtedly there’s some good material in there.
1 Comment
August 11th, 2007 at 8:54 am
(Uncategorized)
The founders of the Gap will soon be opening a museum featuring their enormous collection of modern art. In these days of questionable fashion practices left and right, it’s refreshing to hear that some CEO-type is doing something for the public good with their money-Directly suporting the visual arts through artist development and public education. With so many current ways to naysay a fashion company, between workers rights, animal rights, design theft, inflated prices, and sheer lack of creativity, I look forward to checking out the Contemporary Art Museum of the Presidio when I’m in San Fran as a show of my support. Nolt to mention I’m excited to see such a vast collection. Who cares if the Gap was late on the “limited edition designer line” bandwagon, it’s this type of effort that resonates a lot longer in the hearts and souls of a buying public.
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